{"slug":"death-pass-hidden-paradise","title":"翻越死亡垭口 - 意外发现喜马拉雅深处的天堂","author":"Thomas看看世界","date":"2016-08-30","wechat":"https://mp.weixin.qq.com/s?__biz=MzI4NDA5MzE5NQ==&mid=2247484307&idx=1&sn=9ccc75e5a43db9266854c9455357f69c&scene=21#wechat_redirect","blocks":[{"t":"p","x":"每一张照片的背后，除了器材、光影和技术，更有摄影人艰辛的跋涉与等待。镜头背后的故事，有时比照片本身还要精彩。","b":false,"xe":"Behind every photo, beyond gear, light, and technique, lies the photographer's arduous trekking and waiting. The story behind the lens is sometimes more compelling than the photo itself."},{"t":"p","x":"这里搬运一篇以前发在微博的文章，分享一下我第一次单人长途徒步中，最难忘的一段经历。","b":false,"xe":"Here is a repost of an article I once published on Weibo, sharing the most unforgettable part of my first solo long-distance trek."},{"t":"p","x":"2014年10月，当我听说48名徒步者命丧5416米的Thorong La 垭口时，除了震惊，更想起了几个月之前的那场暴风雪。那时的我在没有向导和背夫的情况下，一个人艰难翻越了这座死亡垭口，并意外发现了大雪后那天堂般的喜马拉雅小镇。","b":false,"xe":"In October 2014, when I heard that 48 trekkers had died at the 5,416-meter Thorong La Pass, I was shocked—and it reminded me of the blizzard a few months earlier. Back then, with no guide and no porter, I crossed this pass of death alone with great difficulty, and unexpectedly discovered a heavenly Himalayan town after the heavy snow."},{"t":"p","x":"那一张张美丽的照片背后，是一段努力寻找极限自由与极致之美的故事。","b":false,"xe":"Behind those beautiful photos is a story of striving for ultimate freedom and ultimate beauty."},{"t":"img","f":"img-02","w":640,"h":425},{"t":"p","x":"这是我安娜大环线徒步的第九天。前几天大雪连续袭击了尼泊尔东部山区，一路遇到的都是垂头丧气的从山上原路撤下的徒步者。","b":false,"xe":"This was the ninth day of my Annapurna Circuit trek. Heavy snow had battered the mountains of eastern Nepal for days, and everyone I met along the way was a disheartened trekker retreating back down the same route."},{"t":"img","f":"img-03","w":640,"h":402},{"t":"p","x":"我抱着试一试的想法继续往上。在月光下海拔4850米的前进营地，周围都是白茫茫的一片，好消息是大雪终于完全停了，天空一片晴朗，星月同辉。","b":false,"xe":"I pressed on upward with a let's-give-it-a-try mindset. At the 4,850-meter advance camp under the moonlight, everything around was a sheet of white. The good news was that the snow had finally stopped completely; the sky was clear, with stars and moon shining together."},{"t":"img","f":"img-04","w":640,"h":425},{"t":"p","x":"高海拔山区的气候变幻莫测，为了在中午云雾开始聚集前翻过最危险的垭口地区。凌晨4点我就起床，一个人走进了深邃的黑夜中。出发半个小时后，才看到后面的点点亮光，那是其他几队徒步者的头灯。","b":false,"xe":"The weather in high mountains is unpredictable. To cross the most dangerous pass area before the clouds gathered at noon, I got up at 4 a.m. and walked alone into the deep night. Half an hour after setting off, I finally saw dots of light behind me—the headlamps of other trekking groups."},{"t":"img","f":"img-05","w":425,"h":640},{"t":"p","x":"这已经不是我第一次走夜路了。我曾经一个人在印度尼西亚的密林中徒步一个通宵，那绝对是一种糟糕的体验。四周黑压压的树木仿佛完全要将我吞没一般，暗处各种动物那幽亮的眼睛和走过草木发出的声音更是常常把人吓个半死。","b":false,"xe":"This was not my first time walking at night. I once hiked alone through an Indonesian jungle for an entire night—an absolutely terrible experience. The pitch-dark trees seemed ready to swallow me whole, and the glinting eyes of animals in the shadows and the sounds of movement in the undergrowth often scared me half to death."},{"t":"p","x":"不过我这次却一点没有害怕，在5000米的纯净雪山中，在浩瀚的月光星空下，我只感觉到一种无边无际的 - 自由！","b":false,"xe":"But this time I felt no fear at all. Amid the pure snow mountains at 5,000 meters, under the vast moonlit starry sky, I felt only boundless—freedom!"},{"t":"img","f":"img-06","w":425,"h":640},{"t":"p","x":"往山下望去，澳大利亚登山队已经走到了铁桥处。春天之后这里会是一条小溪，而周围也全是泥土和岩石。不过此时，一切的生动的颜色都被这一片惨白死死的压在了下面。","b":false,"xe":"Looking down the mountain, the Australian mountaineering team had already reached the iron bridge. After spring, this would be a small creek surrounded by mud and rocks. But at this moment, every vivid color was pressed firmly beneath a sheet of pale white."},{"t":"img","f":"img-07","w":640,"h":425},{"t":"p","x":"在这黑夜中，在这雪山上，这是一片最纯净的世界，纯净的只剩下黑和白。","b":false,"xe":"In this dark night, on this snow mountain, this was the purest of worlds—so pure that only black and white remained."},{"t":"img","f":"img-08","w":640,"h":425},{"t":"p","x":"很快德国父子也跟了上来，我曾坐在烧着干牦牛粪的火炉旁，听这对德国人分享他们的印度历险记。至今我仍能记得他们说道“India is a shit counntry， everywhere is shit。。。”的眉飞色舞。","b":false,"xe":"Soon the German father and son caught up. I had once sat by a stove burning dried yak dung, listening to this German pair share their India adventures. I can still remember their animated faces when they said, \"India is a shit counntry, everywhere is shit...\""},{"t":"img","f":"img-09","w":437,"h":640},{"t":"p","x":"严峻的问题将我快速从回忆中拉出。因为连续的大雪，前面一段山坡已经积起了快齐腰深的雪，路的痕迹更是几乎消失殆尽。","b":false,"xe":"A serious problem quickly pulled me out of my memories. Because of the continuous heavy snow, the slope ahead was buried in nearly waist-deep snow, and all traces of the trail had almost vanished."},{"t":"img","f":"img-10","w":640,"h":425},{"t":"p","x":"一个人走在上面痛苦无比，经常一脚下去整个大腿都全部陷下，挣扎了半天也只挪动了一小段距离。背后这一个个雪坑，记录了我的艰难","b":false,"xe":"Walking on it alone was agonizing; often a single step sank my entire thigh, and after struggling for a long time I had only moved a short distance. The snow pits behind me recorded my hardship."},{"t":"img","f":"img-11","w":425,"h":640},{"t":"p","x":"走了一段后我彻底放弃，原地等待后面的澳洲登山队先上。他们有一位资深向导带队，而且待人高马大的他们踩出脚印之后我再走也能省力不少。","b":false,"xe":"After a while I gave up completely and waited for the Australian team behind me to go first. They had a senior guide leading them, and once these tall, strong men had stamped out footprints, following them would save me a lot of effort."},{"t":"img","f":"img-12","w":640,"h":425},{"t":"p","x":"走了不知道有多久，太阳慢慢从后方升起。阳光铺洒在纯净的冰雪上，这是一种令人窒息的极致之美。","b":false,"xe":"After walking for who knows how long, the sun slowly rose behind me. Sunlight spread over the pure ice and snow—an ultimate beauty that took my breath away."},{"t":"img","f":"img-13","w":640,"h":395},{"t":"p","x":"很快我走到了可能是世界上海拔最高的茶馆，天气允许的情况下会有当地人上来，为徒步者煮上一壶壶热腾腾的奶茶。太阳也完全跃出山头，将温暖铺上整个雪山。","b":false,"xe":"Soon I reached what might be the highest teahouse in the world; when the weather permits, locals come up to brew pot after pot of hot milk tea for trekkers. The sun had fully leapt above the peaks, spreading warmth across the entire snow mountain."},{"t":"img","f":"img-14","w":640,"h":386},{"t":"p","x":"太阳照亮了整个世界，也照出了我们的渺小。在伟大的自然中，人类变得多么的不值一提。","b":false,"xe":"The sun lit up the whole world, and also revealed our insignificance. Before great nature, how trivial humans become."},{"t":"img","f":"img-15","w":640,"h":417},{"t":"p","x":"5000米之上，空气极为稀薄，我每走几步就得停下来喘气。而前面，还有无止境的攀登。","b":false,"xe":"Above 5,000 meters, the air is extremely thin; I had to stop and gasp for breath every few steps. And ahead lay endless climbing."},{"t":"img","f":"img-16","w":640,"h":395},{"t":"p","x":"说实话我对这次徒步的准备是不够充分的。比起我走EBC前写下了近万字的计划准备，这次走大环线，我只匆匆浏览了几篇攻略，下载了地形图就上路了。","b":false,"xe":"To be honest, my preparation for this trek was insufficient. Compared to the nearly ten thousand words of planning I wrote before my EBC trek, this time on the Circuit I just skimmed a few guides, downloaded a topographic map, and set off."},{"t":"img","f":"img-17","w":640,"h":425},{"t":"p","x":"更可怕的是我浏览的攻略中都是好天气时的徒步，对垭口这一堆乱石的翻越无不几笔匆匆带过。而现在，厚厚积雪中的垭口翻越，其难度不亚于初级雪山的攀登。","b":false,"xe":"Worse, the guides I browsed all described trekking in good weather, glossing over the crossing of the pass's pile of loose rocks in a few hasty lines. Now, crossing the pass in thick snow was no less difficult than climbing an entry-level snow mountain."},{"t":"img","f":"img-18","w":640,"h":360},{"t":"p","x":"因为是自己一个人重装徒步，再加上被好天气时的游记迷惑，所以我轻视的把冰雪装备都减重留在了家中，这真是一个致命的失误。","b":false,"xe":"Because I was trekking solo with a heavy pack, and misled by trip reports written in good weather, I foolishly left all my snow and ice gear at home to save weight—a truly fatal mistake."},{"t":"p","x":"幸运的是我在前几天低海拔徒步遇到大雪后，就以30美金的高价收了一副淘宝做工的冰爪。后来在垭口下面，一对冰爪已经炒到了100美元的天价，要不是我自己要翻，真想赚个差价了。一路上好几处亮冰和硬雪，真不知道没有冰爪我是否有胆通过。","b":false,"xe":"Fortunately, after encountering heavy snow during the previous days' low-altitude trekking, I had bought a pair of Taobao-made crampons at the high price of 30 USD. Later, below the pass, a pair of crampons was being scalped for a sky-high 100 USD—if I hadn't needed them for the crossing myself, I would have loved to pocket the difference. There were several stretches of glare ice and hard snow along the way; I really don't know whether I would have dared to pass without crampons."},{"t":"img","f":"img-19","w":640,"h":372},{"t":"p","x":"很快路上遇见的日本姐姐也跟上来了。因为她晒得很黑，我第一次还以为她是尼泊尔的向导。没想到最后发现她是一个人请了2个会说日语的尼泊尔向导的黑富美！","b":false,"xe":"Soon the Japanese lady I had met on the trail caught up. Because she was deeply tanned, I first assumed she was a Nepali guide. It turned out she had hired two Japanese-speaking Nepali guides all to herself—a tanned \"rich beauty\"!"},{"t":"img","f":"img-20","w":640,"h":425},{"t":"p","x":"很快坡度变得平了起来，远处已经可以隐隐约约看见垭口的经幡。一路上来还没有好好休息一下，我决定就地休整，把我的头灯和电筒收起来，同时以便一鼓作气冲上最高点。在那之前，我先把相机放在摄影包上，给自己来了一张自拍。","b":false,"xe":"Soon the slope leveled out, and the prayer flags of the pass were faintly visible in the distance. Not having rested properly on the way up, I decided to take a break on the spot and put away my headlamp and flashlight, so I could make one final dash to the top. Before that, I set my camera on my camera bag and took a selfie."},{"t":"img","f":"img-21","w":640,"h":425},{"t":"p","x":"垭口，已经近在咫尺！最后的冲刺！","b":false,"xe":"The pass was within arm's reach! The final sprint!"},{"t":"img","f":"img-22","w":640,"h":425},{"t":"p","x":"Thorong La，5416米，经过漫长的攀登，我终于做到了！","b":false,"xe":"Thorong La, 5,416 meters. After the long climb, I finally made it!"},{"t":"img","f":"img-23","w":640,"h":425},{"t":"p","x":"兴奋了没多久，更大的挑战就来了，我要从5416米的垭口下撤到3800米的人类居住区，1600米的高强度下降！","b":false,"xe":"The excitement didn't last long before a bigger challenge arrived: I had to descend from the 5,416-meter pass to the inhabited area at 3,800 meters—an intense 1,600-meter descent!"},{"t":"img","f":"img-24","w":425,"h":640},{"t":"p","x":"上山容易下山难，这下是深有体会！","b":false,"xe":"Climbing up is easy, coming down is hard—now I truly felt it!"},{"t":"img","f":"img-25","w":640,"h":425},{"t":"p","x":"刚刚走完一个一眼望不到头的下坡，马上一个拐弯又是无止尽的下坡路，这感觉还是让人极度崩溃的。","b":false,"xe":"Having just finished a downhill stretch that seemed to have no end, another turn brought yet more endless descent—a truly crushing feeling."},{"t":"img","f":"img-26","w":425,"h":640},{"t":"p","x":"这路仿佛永远都没有尽头。这种连目标的影子都看不到的感觉，很是让人沮丧.。","b":false,"xe":"The road seemed to go on forever. Not even being able to see a shadow of the goal was deeply frustrating."},{"t":"img","f":"img-27","w":640,"h":425},{"t":"p","x":"中间还有几段四五十度的大坡，肉眼看起来十分的陡峭。","b":false,"xe":"In between were several big slopes of forty to fifty degrees, looking extremely steep to the naked eye."},{"t":"img","f":"img-28","w":640,"h":425},{"t":"p","x":"不要小看50度的斜坡，从下面望上去简直有垂直的即视感。。。","b":false,"xe":"Don't underestimate a 50-degree slope; from below it looks almost vertical..."},{"t":"img","f":"img-29","w":425,"h":640},{"t":"p","x":"因为高价收购行走冰爪后已经没有现金购买雪套，走了一天，我的鞋子里面已经全部被雪湿透了！","b":false,"xe":"Because I had spent my cash on the high-priced crampons and could not buy gaiters, after a day of walking the inside of my shoes was completely soaked with snow!"},{"t":"img","f":"img-30","w":640,"h":425},{"t":"p","x":"好在最险要的几段路都已经走了过来。惊险和刺激已经成为过去式，只有疲惫还远远没有结束！","b":false,"xe":"Thankfully, the most dangerous sections were already behind me. Thrills and excitement were in the past tense; only exhaustion was far from over!"},{"t":"img","f":"img-31","w":640,"h":425},{"t":"p","x":"难以想象，自己在大雪之后通过垭口都如此狼狈，那48位遇难的徒步者在突如其来的狂暴风雪中，在这漫长而险峻的垭口之上，会是多么的绝望无助！","b":false,"xe":"It is hard to imagine: if crossing the pass after heavy snow left me in such a miserable state, how desperate and helpless must those 48 trekkers have been, caught in the sudden violent blizzard on this long and treacherous pass!"},{"t":"img","f":"img-32","w":640,"h":425},{"t":"p","x":"下午4点，在我出发12个小时后，我终于走出了生命的禁区，重新回到了温暖的人类文明！终于可以点上一杯当地特有的果汁，悠闲的看远处的雪山云雾翻滚。","b":false,"xe":"At 4 p.m., twelve hours after setting out, I finally walked out of the forbidden zone of life and returned to warm human civilization! I could finally order a glass of the local specialty juice and leisurely watch the clouds rolling over the distant snow mountains."},{"t":"img","f":"img-33","w":640,"h":425},{"t":"p","x":"晒晒我的熊样，脸上没有被打劫帽和太阳镜的覆盖的地方，即便涂了防晒霜任然惨不忍睹！","b":false,"xe":"Let me show you my sorry state: the parts of my face not covered by my balaclava and sunglasses were a miserable sight despite the sunscreen!"},{"t":"img","f":"img-34","w":640,"h":425},{"t":"p","x":"放一张翻垭口前的“小鲜肉”照做对比~~","b":false,"xe":"Here is a \"fresh-faced\" photo of me before the pass crossing for comparison~~"},{"t":"img","f":"img-35","w":640,"h":382},{"t":"p","x":"不过这一切的辛苦都是值得的，因为随后的几天，我见到了从来没有在前人游记中读到过的绝世美景。","b":false,"xe":"But all this hardship was worth it, because in the following days I witnessed unparalleled beauty that I had never read about in any previous travelogue."},{"t":"img","f":"img-36","w":640,"h":425},{"t":"p","x":"大雪后的喜马拉雅小镇，神圣而美丽。","b":false,"xe":"The Himalayan town after heavy snow, sacred and beautiful."},{"t":"img","f":"img-37","w":640,"h":425},{"t":"p","x":"这里有世界最深的峡谷和世界第七高峰-道拉吉里。","b":false,"xe":"Here lies the world's deepest gorge and the world's seventh-highest peak—Dhaulagiri."},{"t":"img","f":"img-38","w":640,"h":425},{"t":"p","x":"这里就是神秘的木斯塘王国的入口，喜马拉雅深处的秘境天堂！","b":false,"xe":"This is the gateway to the mysterious Kingdom of Mustang, a hidden paradise deep in the Himalayas!"},{"t":"p","x":"这里，就是我努力寻找的极致自由，和极限之美！","b":false,"xe":"This is the ultimate freedom and ultimate beauty I had been striving to find!"},{"t":"img","f":"img-39","w":640,"h":425},{"t":"p","x":"全文完！","b":false,"xe":"The End!"},{"t":"img","f":"img-40","w":640,"h":313}],"titleEn":"Crossing the Pass of Death: An Unexpected Paradise Deep in the Himalayas"}