{"slug":"greenland-arctic-village","title":"转机六次，我拍到了童话般的北极渔村！格陵兰岛人文风景摄影","author":"Thomas看看世界","date":"2024-03-10","wechat":"https://mp.weixin.qq.com/s?__biz=MzI4NDA5MzE5NQ==&mid=2247499407&idx=1&sn=e69803a4ab463c0245b54b4f9599db17&chksm=eb8200ebdcf589fdfbc6937a45df5f94c00d791e473539cb78ba34ef8193d97e92bab2c5918f&scene=21#wechat_redirect","blocks":[{"t":"p","x":"转机六次，我们来到了神山下的格陵兰岛小镇乌玛纳克。","b":false,"xe":"After six connecting flights, we arrived at Uummannaq, a Greenlandic town beneath a sacred mountain."},{"t":"p","x":"连续下雪，我们既拍到了仙境般的白色世界，又遇到了接连5天航班取消，滞留在了这里。","b":false,"xe":"With continuous snowfall, we captured a fairy-tale white world — and also ran into five consecutive days of flight cancellations that stranded us here."},{"t":"img","f":"img-01","w":1080,"h":808},{"t":"p","x":"为了打发滞留时间，我们把目光放到了周围更偏远的小村庄，这些几十人几百人居住的渔村几乎没有游客探访，网上资料也很少。","b":false,"xe":"To pass the time while stranded, we turned our attention to the even more remote villages nearby — fishing villages of dozens or hundreds of residents that see almost no tourists and have very little information online."},{"t":"p","x":"没想到我们却因此，意外邂逅了童话世界般的北极小村庄Saattut。","b":false,"xe":"Unexpectedly, this led us to a chance encounter with Saattut, an Arctic village straight out of a fairy tale."},{"t":"img","f":"img-02","w":1080,"h":720},{"t":"h","x":"视频","xe":"Video"},{"t":"bili","bv":"BV1gC411Y7B8","bpic":"bili-1","bt":"转机六次，我拍到了童话般的北极渔村！格陵兰岛深度探索之旅"},{"t":"p","x":"这一篇是上面视频的完整图文整理。Thomas 转机六次来到格陵兰岛的乌玛纳克，又因连续暴雪滞留，意外把目光投向周边更偏远的村庄，最终乘雪地摩托跨越冰封大海，探访了几乎没有游客和网上资料的北极渔村 Saattut。文字按视频线重新组织，并配上无人机构图教学段落的遥控器屏幕截图——先看图文，再去视频里感受零下的风。","b":false,"xe":"This is the fully illustrated companion to the video above. After six flights, Thomas reached Uummannaq in Greenland; stranded by continuous blizzards, he turned his attention to the more remote settlements nearby and finally crossed the frozen sea by snowmobile to Saattut, an Arctic fishing village with almost no tourists and hardly any information online. The text follows the video's arc, with screenshots of the drone-controller screen from the composition lesson — read this first, then feel the sub-zero wind in the video."},{"t":"img","f":"v01","w":852,"h":480},{"t":"h","x":"01 六次转机与冰封大海上的25公里","xe":"01 Six Flights and the Last 25 Kilometers Over Sea Ice"},{"t":"p","x":"这趟旅程的路线被做成了字幕贴在画面上：重庆、北京、哥本哈根、Kangerlussuaq、Ilulissat、Qaarsut，最后还要转一段直升机才能落到乌玛纳克（视频 0:00-0:13 处）。但即便到了这里，行程仍未结束——距离目的地还有最后 25 公里，需要乘坐这片土地上最具格陵兰特色的冬季交通方式：狗拉雪橇，或者现代一点的雪地摩托，跨越冰封的冬季大海（视频 0:14-0:26 处）。","xe":"The route of this trip is overlaid on the opening frames: Chongqing, Beijing, Copenhagen, Kangerlussuaq, Ilulissat, Qaarsut, and finally a helicopter hop down to Uummannaq (at 0:00-0:13 in the video). And even arriving there does not end the journey — 25 kilometers remain, to be covered by the most Greenlandic winter transport there is: a dogsled, or its more modern cousin the snowmobile, across the frozen winter sea (at 0:14-0:26 in the video)."},{"t":"img","f":"v02","w":852,"h":480},{"t":"h","x":"02 乌玛纳克：1400人的北极渔港小镇","xe":"02 Uummannaq: an Arctic Fishing Town of 1,400"},{"t":"p","x":"乌玛纳克镇大概有 1400 多人口，在北极圈以北已经算是很大的城镇（视频 1:12-1:18 处）。很多人好奇这些北极村庄的人靠什么维生：夏天，镇子的港口停满了小型渔船，居民出海打鱼；而到了冬天，大海结冰，远景的冰原上隐约可以看到人影——他们会在冰上凿开冰洞，放下几百米长的鱼线垂钓（视频 1:30-1:53 处）。","xe":"Uummannaq has roughly 1,400 residents — a large town by the standards of the lands above the Arctic Circle (at 1:12-1:18 in the video). Visitors often wonder what people live on up here: in summer the harbor fills with small fishing boats and the townsfolk fish at sea; in winter the sea freezes over and figures appear on the distant ice — they drill holes through it and drop fishing lines hundreds of meters long (at 1:30-1:53 in the video)."},{"t":"img","f":"v03","w":852,"h":480},{"t":"img","f":"v04","w":852,"h":480},{"t":"img","f":"v05","w":852,"h":480},{"t":"h","x":"03 大雪封城与地图上的发现","xe":"03 Snowbound, and a Discovery on the Map"},{"t":"p","x":"原计划是 20 到 23 号游览乌玛纳克，之后飞往更北边的卡纳克（Qaanaaq）。22 号这天，Thomas 同时收到了一个好消息和一个坏消息：好消息是天终于下雪了，整个小镇变成白茫茫的一片，非常好看；坏消息是未来五天所有直升机都会因天气取消——他们要在这座红色的海边小屋里，一住就是八天（视频 2:20-2:53 处）。","xe":"The plan had been to explore Uummannaq from the 20th to the 23rd, then fly north to Qaanaaq. On the 22nd, Thomas received good news and bad news at once: the good news was that snow had finally fallen and turned the whole town into a beautiful white world; the bad news was that every helicopter flight for the next five days was cancelled by weather — the team would spend eight days in a little red cabin by the sea (at 2:20-2:53 in the video)."},{"t":"img","f":"v06","w":852,"h":480},{"t":"p","x":"接下来几天，他们用双脚走遍、用无人机飞遍了乌玛纳克几乎每一个角落，眼看就要找不到新的拍摄角度了。于是 Thomas 把目光放到了周围的村庄，下午在网上的电子地图上逐一排查（视频 2:53-3:18 处）：Qaarsut 是转机地但上不去；Ikerasak 有点太远；最后他发现了一个叫 Saattut 的小村——日出方向是东边，从日出方向看过来，村子背后正好是乌玛纳克的神山，而且会被朝阳照亮（视频 3:29-3:43 处）。","xe":"Over the following days they walked and flew their drone over nearly every corner of Uummannaq and were running out of fresh angles. So Thomas turned his attention to the surrounding settlements, screening them one by one on an online map that afternoon (at 2:53-3:18 in the video): Qaarsut was the helicopter transfer stop but effectively out of reach; Ikerasak was a bit too far; and then he spotted a tiny settlement called Saattut — with the sunrise in the east, looking back from the morning light the village would have the sacred mountain of Uummannaq behind it, lit up by the first sun (at 3:29-3:43 in the video)."},{"t":"img","f":"v07","w":852,"h":480},{"t":"p","x":"这座神山离 Saattut 还有 25 公里，而且网上几乎搜不到关于这个小村子的资料和照片——越是搜不到，越让人想去。他们通过网络联系上了当地向导帕鲁克，他愿意用雪地摩托载着他们穿越冰海去探索（视频 3:43-4:07 处）。在北极坐雪地摩托真的非常冷，穿上最厚的羽绒服、做好全副武装，寒冷还是会慢慢从空气中渗透进来；一个小时极寒旅程之后，他们终于见到了这个神秘的北极渔村（视频 4:10-4:35 处）。","xe":"The sacred mountain still lay 25 kilometers from Saattut, and almost nothing about the village could be found online — no information, barely any photos. The harder it was to find, the more compelling the place became. Over the internet they found a local guide, Paluk, willing to carry them across the frozen sea by snowmobile (at 3:43-4:07 in the video). Riding a snowmobile in the Arctic is genuinely brutal: even in the thickest down gear, the cold slowly seeps in through the air. After an hour in that deep freeze, they finally stood before the mysterious fishing village (at 4:10-4:35 in the video)."},{"t":"img","f":"v08","w":852,"h":480},{"t":"h","x":"04 无人机升起后的构图课","xe":"04 The Composition Lesson After the Drone Takes Off"},{"t":"p","x":"从地面上看，Saattut 的景色并不出众；不过当无人机升起之后，一切都变了（视频 4:36-4:41 处）。接下来 Thomas 把镜头切换到了无人机遥控器的屏幕，完整演示了他找构图的过程（视频 5:15 处）：先往小镇的另一个方向飞，远处的山峰圆头平顶、不好看，小镇背后还有一大堆岩石滩；于是飞到小镇侧面，那里背后的山峰雄伟、光影也好，但构图有点太高了——需要飞得更近、更低一些，才能把山峰取全，再下来一点还能留出留白的空间（视频 5:21-5:58 处）。","xe":"From the ground, Saattut looks unremarkable; once the drone rises, everything changes (at 4:36-4:41 in the video). Thomas then switches the camera to his drone controller's screen and walks through how he searches for a composition (at 5:15 in the video): first he flies toward the other side of the village, where the peaks are round-topped and plain and a jumble of rock sits behind the houses; so he moves to the village's flank, where the mountain behind is majestic and the light is good — but the framing is too high. He needs to fly closer and lower to take in the full peak, and dropping a little more yields breathing room in the frame (at 5:21-5:58 in the video)."},{"t":"img","f":"v09","w":852,"h":480},{"t":"p","x":"接着他换上 7 倍长焦镜头：远处有一大片冰山，已经搁浅在海湾里、周边被冬天的海冰冻住，特别有意思；配上五颜六色的房子，干脆全部用 7 倍长焦取进来（视频 6:05-6:29 处）。焦段越长，远处的景物被拍得越大，远近的比例关系随之改变——这正是长焦的空间压缩优势（视频 8:54-9:04 处）。","xe":"Next he switches to the 7x telephoto lens: a field of icebergs sits grounded in the bay, locked in by winter sea ice, a fascinating sight; together with the riotously colored houses, he frames it all through the 7x telephoto (at 6:05-6:29 in the video). The longer the focal length, the larger distant objects appear and the scale between near and far shifts — exactly the compression advantage of a telephoto (at 8:54-9:04 in the video)."},{"t":"img","f":"v10","w":852,"h":480},{"t":"p","x":"视角再往右转，远处 25 公里外的乌玛纳克神山进入画面——这正是他出发前在地图上构想的那个构图，虽然遥远，却真的非常壮观（视频 6:32-6:48 处）。构图时他在寻找平衡：把雪山放在画面中间，左边有一根天线塔，右边是黄色房子和整个小镇，相对平衡一些；但整体而言右边的小镇还是太重，他继续向右微调。途中还发现一栋配色奇特的绿紫互补色房子，想把它放在画面右侧三分之一处、黄色房子放在左侧三分之一处，再兼顾雪山的平衡，画面就稍稍好了很多（视频 6:50-7:46 处）。","xe":"Swinging the view further right, the sacred mountain of Uummannaq enters the frame, 25 kilometers away — precisely the composition he had envisioned on the map before setting out; impossibly distant, and truly spectacular (at 6:32-6:48 in the video). Now he hunts for balance: the snow mountain at center, an antenna tower on the left, the yellow house and the town on the right — more balanced, yet the town still weighs too heavy on the right, so he keeps easing rightward. Along the way he spots a house painted in an odd green-purple complementary scheme and wants it at the right third, the yellow house at the left third, all while keeping the mountain balanced — and the frame settles into something much better (at 6:50-7:46 in the video)."},{"t":"img","f":"v11","w":852,"h":480},{"t":"p","x":"最后一个角度：村子背后有一座笔直的悬崖，阳光正照到前面的彩色小镇，而后面的悬崖完全背光，形成了一个很好的冷暖对比——暖色的小屋与冷色巨崖同框，这是极地低角度阳光独有的馈赠（视频 9:11-9:24 处）。","xe":"One last angle: behind the village rises a sheer cliff. The sun lights the colorful town in front while the cliff behind stays fully backlit, creating a beautiful warm-cool contrast — warm houses against a cold giant, a gift unique to the Arctic's low sun (at 9:11-9:24 in the video)."},{"t":"img","f":"v12","w":852,"h":480},{"t":"h","x":"05 颜色密码与职业摄影师的意义","xe":"05 The Color Code, and Why We Photograph"},{"t":"p","x":"格陵兰这些彩色小房子其实藏着一部实用手册：这里曾是北欧人的殖民地，当年当地人没有文字语言，人们就用房子的颜色区分功能——超市和商业建筑都是红色的，绿色建筑一般是通讯设施，而很大的一片黄色房子通常是诊所和医院（视频 8:16-8:43 处）。当然，现代的格陵兰人更加个性化，不再严格按颜色「持证上岗」。","xe":"Greenland's colorful houses hide a practical manual: this was once a Nordic colony, and since the locals then had no written language, house colors marked their functions — supermarkets and commercial buildings were red, green buildings usually communication facilities, and a large yellow house was typically the clinic or hospital (at 8:16-8:43 in the video). Modern Greenlanders, of course, are far more individual and no longer follow the color code to the letter."},{"t":"img","f":"v13","w":852,"h":480},{"t":"p","x":"坐了一个多小时的冰上雪橇回到乌玛纳克时，Thomas 浑身已经冻透。Saattut 平时没有游客前往，也没有旅店可以住宿，这次非常遗憾没能更深地体验小村庄宁静安详的一面（视频 9:42-10:05 处）。但在今天之前，网上几乎搜不到关于这个北极小渔村的信息和照片；因纽特人世代在这里捕鱼打猎维生，世外桃源一般（视频 10:07-10:26 处）。","xe":"The hour-long ride back across the ice to Uummannaq left Thomas frozen through. Saattut normally sees no visitors and has no guesthouse, so regrettably they could not stay to experience its quiet, gentle side more deeply (at 9:42-10:05 in the video). Before this trip, the village was all but absent from the internet — an Inuit community that has fished and hunted here for generations, a Shangri-la of the ice (at 10:07-10:26 in the video)."},{"t":"img","f":"v14","w":852,"h":480},{"t":"p","x":"「发现没有被探索过的生活，呈现世界不为人知的一面」——Thomas 说，这是职业摄影师工作的一种重要意义（视频 10:28-10:34 处）。或许下一个因为一张照片而知道 Saattut 的人，会带着更多的好奇和尊重抵达这片冰海。","xe":"\"To discover lives that have never been explored, and to show sides of the world that no one knows\" — that, Thomas says, is part of what it means to work as a professional photographer (at 10:28-10:34 in the video). Perhaps someone will one day reach this frozen sea because of a single photograph from Saattut, arriving with more curiosity and respect."},{"t":"quote","x":"1. 目的地的灵感可以先在地图上完成：日出方位、背景山峰、距离与角度，出发前就把构图构想好；2. 地面平淡的村庄，无人机升起后可能完全是另一个世界——换方向、飞侧面、降高度、留留白，构图是逐步逼近出来的；3. 长焦的压缩能把远处的神山拍得更大，让 25 公里外的背景与前景小村同框；4. 冷暖对比是极地摄影的利器：阳光照亮的暖色小镇与背光的冷色悬崖，一个画面两种温度。","xe":"1. Inspiration can start on the map: sunrise direction, background peaks, distances and angles — envision the composition before you leave; 2. A village that looks plain from the ground may be another world once the drone lifts — change direction, fly to the flank, drop lower, leave negative space; a composition is approached step by step; 3. Telephoto compression magnifies the distant sacred mountain, putting a 25-kilometer backdrop in the same frame as the village; 4. Warm-cool contrast is a polar photographer's weapon: sunlit warm houses against a backlit cold cliff — two temperatures in one frame."},{"t":"img","f":"img-04","w":1080,"h":720},{"t":"img","f":"img-05","w":1080,"h":808},{"t":"img","f":"img-06","w":1080,"h":809}],"titleEn":"Six Layovers to a Fairytale Arctic Fishing Village: Greenland Culture and Landscape"}