{"slug":"how-beautiful-patagonia","title":"巴塔哥尼亚有多美?","author":"Thomas看看世界","date":"2019-03-17","wechat":"https://mp.weixin.qq.com/s?__biz=MzI4NDA5MzE5NQ==&mid=2247488525&idx=1&sn=f646270636db9a42e1eec8b2ebdbc260&chksm=eb81ea69dcf6637f01e3a65629cb791777c83bfe5c2ec430f2246054302d4a58429a69583812&scene=21#wechat_redirect","blocks":[{"t":"h","x":"Thomas看看世界","xe":"Thomas Chu Photo"},{"t":"p","x":"去年5月，我和极影的周游一起探索了南美的巴塔哥尼亚地区。那里险峻的雪山，多彩的秋色和变幻莫测的天气都让我印象深刻。","b":false,"xe":"Last May, I explored the Patagonia region of South America together with Zhou You (周游) of AdventureX (极影). The rugged snow mountains, colorful autumn hues, and unpredictable weather all left a deep impression on me."},{"t":"p","x":"当然，更让我印象深刻的还是我的同伴周游，和他的那种追求极致的风光摄影精神。","b":false,"xe":"Of course, what impressed me even more was my companion Zhou You (周游) and his spirit of pursuing extreme landscape photography."},{"t":"p","x":"拍摄下图时，我们在小溪边搜索了很久，但没有找到比较独特的机位。我只能退而求其次，在远离小溪的灌木从中进行取景拍摄。","b":false,"xe":"When shooting the photo below, we searched along the creek for a long time but couldn't find a distinctive vantage point. I had to settle for a less ideal position, shooting from the bushes away from the creek."},{"t":"img","f":"img-02","w":1067,"h":1600},{"t":"p","x":"不过周游另辟蹊径，他发现溪水的反光和纹理很有冲击力。但前提就是需要下到水中，离水花在半米之内进行拍摄。","b":false,"xe":"But Zhou You took a different approach. He found the reflections and textures of the creek water striking. The catch was that he had to get into the water, shooting within half a meter of the splashes."},{"t":"p","x":"虽然我们出发前完全没有做相关的涉水准备。他还是在寒冷刺骨的清晨，光着脚只穿着短裤，跳进了过膝深的冰川融水中近20分钟，终于拍到了下面这张最具冲击力的角度。","b":false,"xe":"Even though we'd made no preparations for wading before departure, on a bone-chilling cold morning, barefoot and wearing only shorts, he jumped into knee-deep glacial meltwater for nearly 20 minutes, finally capturing the most impactful angle below."},{"t":"img","f":"img-03","w":1080,"h":720},{"t":"p","x":"后面在他的提议下，我们只带着睡袋，在乱石堆中将就了一晚，终于拍到了下面这张有特色的月出红山头。","b":false,"xe":"Later, at his suggestion, we made do with just sleeping bags among the rocks for a night, finally capturing the distinctive moonrise over the red-tinted peak below."},{"t":"img","f":"img-04","w":1080,"h":720},{"t":"p","x":"在这篇文章中，周游用他精美的照片，和有趣的文字，为我们展开了一幅遥远南美大陆上的山水画卷。","b":false,"xe":"In this article, Zhou You (周游) uses his exquisite photos and engaging words to unfold a landscape scroll of the distant South American continent for us."},{"t":"h","x":"导","xe":"Intro"},{"t":"p","x":"LEAD","b":false,"xe":"LEAD"},{"t":"h","x":"语","xe":"duction"},{"t":"p","x":"图/文：周游","b":false,"xe":"Photos/Text: Zhou You (周游)"},{"t":"p","x":"什么是巴塔哥尼亚？一本游记小说，三部登山电影在脑海中构成了我对巴塔哥尼亚这个具有传奇色彩的地域的最初幻想，于是开启为期一个月的巴塔哥尼亚之旅。","b":false,"xe":"What is Patagonia? A travel novel and three climbing films formed my initial fantasies about this legendary region, so I set off on a month-long journey to Patagonia."},{"t":"p","x":"这片充满传奇而又神奇的土地，每年吸引着无数的登山者和探险家到这里实现梦想和追求，同时也不断创造着新的传奇。","b":false,"xe":"This legendary and wondrous land attracts countless climbers and explorers every year to fulfill their dreams and pursuits, while continuously creating new legends."},{"t":"img","f":"img-05","w":1080,"h":645},{"t":"p","x":"《亘古不变》（阿根廷 菲茨罗伊峰）","b":false,"xe":"\"Unchanging Through the Ages\" (亘古不变) (Fitz Roy, Argentina)"},{"t":"p","x":"这片土地仿佛拥有着磁性和魔力，就像《巴塔哥尼亚高原上》一书中所说，幼年的查特文在母家玻璃橱窗里的一小块“雷龙皮”。这片“雷龙皮”就像一组达芬奇密码，不经意的打开了神秘国度巴塔哥尼亚的大门。","b":false,"xe":"This land seems to possess magnetism and magic, just as described in the book \"In Patagonia\": young Chatwin's \"small piece of brontosaurus skin\" in his grandmother's glass cabinet. That \"piece of brontosaurus skin\" was like a Da Vinci code that casually opened the door to the mysterious land of Patagonia."},{"t":"p","x":"成年后的他，某天无意中看到一副南美洲巴塔哥尼亚的地图，被神秘力量唤醒了儿时的记忆，就这样他从报社辞职，义无反顾地奔向世界尽头，去追寻儿时的梦，于是开启了一段奇幻旅程。","b":false,"xe":"As an adult, he one day happened to see a map of Patagonia in South America, and a mysterious force awakened his childhood memories. Just like that, he resigned from the newspaper and rushed unhesitatingly to the end of the world to pursue his childhood dream, beginning a fantastical journey."},{"t":"img","f":"img-06","w":1080,"h":676},{"t":"p","x":"《凤凰于飞》（阿根廷 菲茨罗伊峰）","b":false,"xe":"\"Phoenix in Flight\" (凤凰于飞) (Fitz Roy, Argentina)"},{"t":"h","x":"1【地理位置】","xe":"1 [Geographic Location]"},{"t":"img","f":"img-07","w":1080,"h":742},{"t":"p","x":"《高山下的花园》（智利 角峰）","b":false,"xe":"\"The Garden at the Foot of the Mountain\" (高山下的花园) (Cuernos, Chile)"},{"t":"p","x":"巴塔哥尼亚，位于南美大陆的最南端，因为地理位置封闭而被称为“世界的尽头”，主要位于阿根廷境内，小部分属于智利。几乎包括阿根廷本土南部的所有土地。","b":false,"xe":"Patagonia lies at the southernmost tip of the South American continent. Due to its secluded geographic position, it's called \"the end of the world.\" It's mostly within Argentina, with a small part in Chile, covering nearly all the southern lands of mainland Argentina."},{"t":"p","x":"这里由广阔的草原和沙漠组成，其边界大约西抵巴塔哥尼亚安地斯山脉，北滨科罗拉多河，东临大西洋，南濒麦哲伦海峡；海峡南面的火地岛分别隶属于阿根廷和智利，通常也划入巴塔哥尼亚的范围内。","b":false,"xe":"It consists of vast grasslands and deserts. Its borders roughly extend west to the Patagonian Andes, north to the Colorado River, east to the Atlantic Ocean, and south to the Strait of Magellan. Tierra del Fuego, south of the strait, belongs to Argentina and Chile respectively and is usually included within Patagonia's range."},{"t":"h","x":"2【地名起源】","xe":"2 [Origin of the Name]"},{"t":"img","f":"img-08","w":1080,"h":720},{"t":"p","x":"《枯荣》（阿根廷 菲茨罗伊峰）","b":false,"xe":"\"Withering and Flourishing\" (枯荣) (Fitz Roy, Argentina)"},{"t":"p","x":"1520年，麦哲伦在环球航行中横渡了大西洋，抵达美洲南端，成为了第一位踏上这片土地的欧洲人，一下船，水手们就发现了一群衣不蔽体的巨人在海边又唱又跳。据当时船上的意大利学者安东尼奥·皮加费塔记载，那些巨人有10英尺（3米）高。","b":false,"xe":"In 1520, during his circumnavigation, Magellan crossed the Atlantic and reached the southern tip of the Americas, becoming the first European to set foot on this land. As soon as they disembarked, the sailors found a group of barely-clothed giants singing and dancing by the sea. According to the Italian scholar Antonio Pigafetta aboard, those giants were 10 feet (3 meters) tall."},{"t":"p","x":"因为这些巨人在这片土地上留下了巨大的脚印，于是这片土地被命名为“Patagonia”，翻译为“巨足”。","b":false,"xe":"Because these giants left huge footprints on this land, it was named \"Patagonia,\" which translates to \"big feet.\""},{"t":"h","x":"3【气候特征】","xe":"3 [Climate Characteristics]"},{"t":"img","f":"img-09","w":1080,"h":543},{"t":"p","x":"托雷峰与菲茨罗伊峰（阿根廷）","b":false,"xe":"Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy (Argentina)"},{"t":"p","x":"巴塔哥尼亚西邻世界最长的山脉安第斯山脉，湿润的西风从太平洋吹来，遇到高大的山地，被强烈抬升，形成丰富的降雪。水蒸气遇冷凝结，安第斯山脉降雪丰富。","b":false,"xe":"Patagonia borders the world's longest mountain range, the Andes, to the west. Moist westerlies from the Pacific meet the tall mountains and are forced sharply upward, producing abundant snowfall. As water vapor condenses in the cold, the Andes receive heavy snow."},{"t":"p","x":"而在安第斯山脉东侧的平原，景象则大不相同。这里是西风的背风一侧，干燥的西风翻过安第斯山，沿着山坡一路直下。这里降水非常稀少，大片土地被荒漠占据，常年风吹走石头，只长低矮灌木的荒漠，远方是莽莽潘帕斯大草原，此时草已枯黄，天上流云浮过，四下风声呼啸。","b":false,"xe":"On the plains east of the Andes, however, the scene is completely different. This is the leeward side of the westerlies: dry westerly winds cross the Andes and rush down the slopes. Precipitation here is extremely scarce, and vast tracts of land are occupied by desert — barren land where wind constantly blows away stones and only low shrubs grow. In the distance stretches the vast Pampas grassland, its grass now withered yellow, clouds drifting overhead, and the wind howling all around."},{"t":"img","f":"img-10","w":1080,"h":1618},{"t":"p","x":"《树的姿态》（智利 角峰）","b":false,"xe":"\"The Posture of the Tree\" (树的姿态) (Cuernos, Chile)"},{"t":"img","f":"img-11","w":114,"h":116},{"t":"h","x":"01","xe":"01"},{"t":"p","x":"大风","b":false,"xe":"The Strong Winds"},{"t":"p","x":"巴塔哥尼亚气候条件恶劣，有“风土高原”之称。头年10月起，狂风开始暴虐，一刮就到来年的三月，在狂风的肆虐下把人吹的只剩下一把骨头。","b":false,"xe":"Patagonia has harsh climate conditions and is known as the \"plateau of wind and soil.\" Starting in October, ferocious winds begin to rage and don't let up until March of the following year, scouring people down to skin and bone."},{"t":"p","x":"在巴塔哥尼亚有这样的一句谚语来描述大风形成的，鸟儿倒着飞，树儿横着长！在巴塔哥尼亚一个月的日子里，我耳机里响起的就是《Crossing Winds》这首曲子。","b":true,"xe":"There's a saying in Patagonia that describes the wind: birds fly backward, and trees grow sideways! During my month in Patagonia, the tune playing in my earphones was \"Crossing Winds.\""},{"t":"img","f":"img-12","w":1080,"h":720},{"t":"p","x":"《摩羯的魔界》（智利 角峰）","b":false,"xe":"\"The Demon Realm of Capricorn\" (摩羯的魔界) (Cuernos, Chile)"},{"t":"p","x":"这里的狂风会“杀人”，不但成为攀登这里山峰的最大阻碍，杀死众多来此挑战的登山者，即便不是来挑战群峰，也有可能被狂风杀害！","b":false,"xe":"The ferocious wind here can \"kill.\" It's not only the greatest obstacle to climbing these peaks, claiming many climbers who come to challenge them — even those who aren't here to conquer the summits can be killed by the wind!"},{"t":"img","f":"img-13","w":1080,"h":720},{"t":"p","x":"《绝处逢生》（阿根廷 菲茨罗伊峰）","b":false,"xe":"\"Survival in Desperate Straits\" (绝处逢生) (Fitz Roy, Argentina)"},{"t":"p","x":"1968年，道格拉斯·汤普金斯（Doug Tompkins）约上好友伊冯·乔伊纳德（Yvon Chouinard）一起去攀登巴塔哥尼亚高原的菲茨罗伊峰。","b":false,"xe":"In 1968, Douglas Tompkins invited his friend Yvon Chouinard to climb Fitz Roy on the Patagonian plateau."},{"t":"p","x":"他们从美国加利福尼亚出发，买了辆二手的面包车，8000多公里的路程一路玩过去，经历了六个月的旅途，他们终于到了巴塔哥尼亚。攀登菲茨罗伊峰时并不顺利，他们遭遇了巴塔哥尼亚恐怖的狂风，经历了无数艰难险阻。","b":false,"xe":"They set off from California in a used van they'd bought, playing their way along the 8,000-plus-kilometer route. After a six-month journey, they finally reached Patagonia. Climbing Fitz Roy didn't go smoothly — they encountered Patagonia's terrifying winds and endured countless hardships."},{"t":"img","f":"img-14","w":1080,"h":720},{"t":"p","x":"《冰封王座》（阿根廷 托雷峰）","b":false,"xe":"\"The Frozen Throne\" (冰封王座) (Cerro Torre, Argentina)"},{"t":"p","x":"乔伊纳德则是后来知名户外品牌巴塔哥尼亚的创始人，而这个品牌的logo就是用了他看到的菲茨罗伊峰的天际线的线条。汤普金斯早已是著名户外品牌北面（North Face）的创始人，北面，意为山峰没有太阳照射，最阴冷的一面。","b":false,"xe":"Chouinard later became the founder of the famous outdoor brand Patagonia, whose logo uses the skyline lines of Fitz Roy as he saw it. Tompkins had already founded the renowned outdoor brand The North Face — \"North Face\" referring to the coldest, most sunless side of a mountain."},{"t":"p","x":"2015年，72岁的汤普金斯在巴塔哥尼亚卡雷拉湖划船，狂风大作，掀翻小船，老爷子坠入湖水，身体失温。抢救无效，最终老爷子永远的长眠于巴塔哥尼亚。","b":true,"xe":"In 2015, at age 72, Tompkins was boating on Lake Carrera in Patagonia when fierce winds capsized the boat. He fell into the lake and suffered hypothermia. Resuscitation failed, and the old man finally found eternal rest in Patagonia."},{"t":"h","x":"02","xe":"02"},{"t":"p","x":"大雪","b":false,"xe":"The Heavy Snow"},{"t":"p","x":"巴塔哥尼亚是一个能满足风光摄影师所有幻想的地方，一直想拍摄秋天叶子还没掉光，秋天初雪的景象，这次愿望也都一一实现，","b":false,"xe":"Patagonia is a place that fulfills every landscape photographer's fantasy. I'd always wanted to capture the early-autumn snow scene while the leaves hadn't yet fallen — this time, all my wishes came true one by one."},{"t":"img","f":"img-15","w":1080,"h":720},{"t":"p","x":"《长相思·山一程》（托雷峰）","b":false,"xe":"\"Everlasting Longing: A Journey Over the Mountains\" (长相思·山一程) (Cerro Torre)"},{"t":"p","x":"——纳兰容若","b":false,"xe":"— Nalan Xingde"},{"t":"h","x":"山一程，水一程，身向榆关那畔行，夜深千帐灯。","xe":"Over the mountains, over the waters, heading toward Shanhaiguan far away; in the deep night, a thousand tents aglow with lamps."},{"t":"h","x":"风一更，雪一更，聒碎乡心梦不成，故园无此声。","xe":"A watch of wind, a watch of snow, the noise shattering my homesick dreams that won't form; there is no such sound back in my hometown."},{"t":"p","x":"图片故事：巴塔哥尼亚的天气变化异常，山里也经常下雪，预报夜晚将有大暴雨，队友选择下撤到小镇，我还是想赌一下第二天早上的极端天气选择留在营地，晚上果然暴雨如约而至，只听见雨点打在帐篷上的声音如鼓点，夜不能寐，一个小时过后，声音渐小，我想：应该是雨停了，才睡着。","b":false,"xe":"Image story: Patagonia's weather is extremely changeable, and it often snows in the mountains. The forecast predicted heavy rain at night, and my teammates chose to descend to the town. I still wanted to bet on the extreme weather the next morning and chose to stay at camp. That night the heavy rain indeed arrived on schedule — all I could hear was raindrops drumming on the tent, and I couldn't sleep. After an hour, the sound gradually faded. I thought, \"The rain must have stopped,\" and finally fell asleep."},{"t":"p","x":"第二天早上醒来，帐篷直接贴在脸上，我想，怎么帐篷塌了？打开帐篷一看，原来后面暴雨转成了暴雪，直接把帐篷压塌！外面的世界银装素裹，玉树琼花！，守得拨云见日出。在山里的日子经历了四场大雪，记录了不少巴塔哥尼亚独特的秋色雪景的绮丽。","b":false,"xe":"When I woke up the next morning, the tent was pressed right against my face. I wondered, how did the tent collapse? Opening the tent, I found the heavy rain had turned into a blizzard that crushed the tent! Outside, the world was dressed in silver, trees adorned with ice and snow. I'd held out until the clouds parted and the sun appeared. Over my days in the mountains, I experienced four heavy snowfalls and documented the splendor of Patagonia's unique autumn snowscapes."},{"t":"img","f":"img-16","w":1080,"h":720},{"t":"p","x":"《迎风傲雪》（阿根廷）","b":false,"xe":"\"Facing the Wind and Snow\" (迎风傲雪) (Argentina)"},{"t":"img","f":"img-17","w":1080,"h":720},{"t":"p","x":"《秋雪》（阿根廷）","b":false,"xe":"\"Autumn Snow\" (秋雪) (Argentina)"},{"t":"img","f":"img-18","w":1080,"h":720},{"t":"p","x":"《春夏秋冬》（阿根廷）","b":false,"xe":"\"Spring, Summer, Autumn, Winter\" (春夏秋冬) (Argentina)"},{"t":"h","x":"4【地理奇峰】","xe":"4 [Geographic Marvel Peaks]"},{"t":"p","x":"世界上最长的山脉——安第斯山脉在这里造出古怪的形状，塔峰群立。这里的山峰更是独树一帜。","b":true,"xe":"The world's longest mountain range, the Andes, creates strange shapes here, with tower peaks standing in groups. The peaks here are truly distinctive."},{"t":"p","x":"冰川和风力常年侵蚀造了独具一格的山峰，在这里发生的攀登运动，以岩冰混合攀登型为主，也造就了一段段登山传奇。","b":false,"xe":"Years of glacial and wind erosion have shaped one-of-a-kind peaks. The climbing that takes place here is mainly mixed rock-and-ice climbing, creating a string of mountaineering legends."},{"t":"img","f":"img-19","w":1080,"h":1618},{"t":"p","x":"《X Time》（阿根廷 菲茨罗伊峰）","b":false,"xe":"\"X Time\" (X Time) (Fitz Roy, Argentina)"},{"t":"p","x":"智利百内国家公园Torres Del Paine (Torre 在西班牙文中意为“塔“）百内公园是自然爱好者的乐园，是户外运动者的天堂和徒步圣地。而根据路线，园内比较著名的是O线徒步和W线徒步。","b":false,"xe":"Torres del Paine National Park in Chile — \"Torre\" means \"tower\" in Spanish. The park is a paradise for nature lovers, a heaven for outdoor enthusiasts, and a trekking mecca. By route, the park is famous for the O Circuit and the W Trek."},{"t":"h","x":"1","xe":"1"},{"t":"p","x":"百内角峰","b":false,"xe":"Cuernos del Paine"},{"t":"p","x":"百内国家公园另一个最上镜的地点，因形状像极了牛犄角而得名。 位于三塔山峰的西侧。欣赏角峰的最佳地点位于裴欧埃湖东南侧岸边，不论日出还是日落都会看到神奇的光影变幻。","b":false,"xe":"Another of the park's most photogenic spots, named for its resemblance to bull horns. It lies to the west of the three towers. The best place to admire the Cuernos is on the southeastern shore of Lake Pehoé — whether at sunrise or sunset, you'll see magical shifts of light and shadow."},{"t":"img","f":"img-20","w":1080,"h":720},{"t":"p","x":"《角峰红云》（智利 角峰）","b":false,"xe":"\"Red Clouds over the Cuernos\" (角峰红云) (Cuernos, Chile)"},{"t":"p","x":"图片故事：初到智利百内国家公园，前一天查了日出时间是上午八点钟，于是第一个早上我把闹铃定在7点，打算拍摄角峰的日出。7点天还没亮，打开帐篷外面黑漆漆一片，头顶有星光从云层中洒落。","b":false,"xe":"Image story: Newly arrived at Chile's Torres del Paine National Park, I checked the day before that sunrise was at 8 a.m., so on the first morning I set my alarm for 7 a.m. to shoot the sunrise over the Cuernos. At 7 it was still dark — outside the tent was pitch black, with starlight falling through gaps in the clouds overhead."},{"t":"p","x":"我也觉得时间还早，慢慢的穿衣服，收拾装备，毕竟前一天就在Pehoe营地附近5分钟步行距离就找到拍摄点。可是再往外面一看，山尖已经泛起了暗淡的红光，眼看着日照金山了，太措手不及了，我这一看，才7点半，外面还是一片黑灰色，难道Google查的当地日出时间不准么？","b":false,"xe":"I felt it was still early, so I dressed slowly and packed my gear, since the day before I'd found a shooting spot just a 5-minute walk from the Pehoé campsite. But when I looked outside again, the mountain peaks were already glowing with a faint red light — it was about to become golden mountains illuminated by the sun. Taken completely by surprise, I checked: it was only 7:30, and outside was still dark gray. Could the sunrise time from Google be wrong?"},{"t":"p","x":"来不及思考这么多，赶快提着相机，奔跑到拍摄点，先来一张日照金山，长曝光，拍出暗红色的魔幻云彩。","b":false,"xe":"No time to think it through. I grabbed my camera and sprinted to the shooting spot. First, a shot of the golden mountains, with a long exposure to capture the magical dark-red clouds."},{"t":"img","f":"img-21","w":1080,"h":720},{"t":"p","x":"《百内风云》（智利 角峰）","b":false,"xe":"\"Weather over the Paine\" (百内风云) (Cuernos, Chile)"},{"t":"p","x":"暗红色的红光持续了五分钟，然后红云慢慢褪去鲜艳的外衣，变成灰蓝色，我还纳闷，怎么这云怎么没烧起来，发呆的看着远处的角峰，倒映在湖水里，显得有些失望。","b":false,"xe":"The dark-red glow lasted five minutes, then the red clouds gradually shed their vivid coat and turned gray-blue. I was puzzled — why weren't the clouds \"burning\"? I stared blankly at the distant Cuernos reflected in the lake, feeling a bit disappointed."},{"t":"p","x":"打算收拾器材回到营地，转瞬间，云彩又披上了红色的嫁衣，一朵飞碟云在角峰的上空旋转，我赶快换上广角镜头，用延时摄影的方式拍下了这瞬息万变的云彩和角峰倒影在裴欧埃湖水中的光影。","b":false,"xe":"I was about to pack up and return to camp when, in an instant, the clouds donned a red wedding dress again, and a lenticular cloud spun above the Cuernos. I quickly swapped to a wide-angle lens and shot the ever-changing clouds and the Cuernos' reflection in the waters of Lake Pehoé with time-lapse."},{"t":"img","f":"img-22","w":1080,"h":720},{"t":"p","x":"《角峰晨光》（智利 角峰）","b":false,"xe":"\"Morning Light on the Cuernos\" (角峰晨光) (Cuernos, Chile)"},{"t":"p","x":"随着太阳的升高，红云逐渐变成橙黄色，这云的变化简直太充满戏剧性了，我也是第一次一个早上看到两次日照金山，大自然太神奇了。","b":false,"xe":"As the sun rose higher, the red clouds gradually turned orange-yellow. The drama of these clouds was incredible. It was also my first time seeing golden mountains twice in one morning — nature is truly amazing."},{"t":"p","x":"我联系了Planit的乔文杰老师，他告诉我别人也发现巴塔哥尼亚这个地方会出现两次日照金山，通过Planit软件模拟，第一次日照金山出现在太阳在地平线-18度角的时候。这个现象后来在阿根廷的费兹洛伊峰也再次的得到了验证。","b":true,"xe":"I contacted Teacher Qiao Wenjie of Planit, who told me others had also discovered that Patagonia experiences two golden-mountain events. According to Planit's simulation, the first golden-mountain moment occurs when the sun is at an angle of -18 degrees below the horizon. This phenomenon was later verified again at Fitz Roy in Argentina."},{"t":"h","x":"2","xe":"2"},{"t":"p","x":"百内三塔","b":false,"xe":"The Towers of Paine"},{"t":"p","x":"群峰中最著名的是彼此相连的三座山峰，它们按照方位被称为南峰（2500米）、中央峰（2460米）和北峰（2260米）。","b":false,"xe":"The most famous of the peaks are three interconnected summits, named by their positions: the South Tower (2,500 m), the Central Tower (2,460 m), and the North Tower (2,260 m)."},{"t":"p","x":"当三座山峰并列，对登山者而言，连续的穿越需要勇气与实力，也代表着至高的荣誉。 2002年，美国人史蒂夫·施奈德（Steve Schneider）在51小时内连穿了3座山峰，成为头条新闻。","b":false,"xe":"When the three towers stand in a row, a continuous traverse demands courage and strength from climbers, and represents the highest honor. In 2002, American Steve Schneider made headlines by traversing all three peaks within 51 hours."},{"t":"img","f":"img-23","w":1080,"h":1618},{"t":"p","x":"《月光流逝》（智利 百内三塔）","b":false,"xe":"\"Moonlight Fading\" (月光流逝) (The Towers of Paine, Chile)"},{"t":"p","x":"“三塔”是百内国家公园最为标志性的景点，如三根手指般耸立于山间的三座山峰被人们冠以“三塔”的昵称，百内国家公园的西班牙语名称也由此而来。其中，位于南侧的山峰最高，达2500米。","b":false,"xe":"The \"Three Towers\" are the most iconic sight in Torres del Paine National Park. The three peaks, standing like three fingers in the mountains, earned the nickname \"Three Towers,\" from which the park's Spanish name derives. The southernmost tower is the tallest at 2,500 meters."},{"t":"p","x":"山脚下的冰川湖带有绿松石的颜色，美丽无比。“三塔”坐东朝西，是欣赏日出的绝佳圣地。但要近距离瞻仰“三塔”，还需要5-6个小时的登山徒步。","b":false,"xe":"The glacial lake at the foot of the mountain is a gorgeous turquoise. The \"Three Towers\" face west from the east, making them a perfect spot to enjoy sunrise. But getting up close to the \"Three Towers\" requires a 5-6 hour hike."},{"t":"img","f":"img-24","w":1080,"h":720},{"t":"p","x":"《夜袭三塔》（智利 百内三塔）","b":false,"xe":"\"Night Assault on the Three Towers\" (夜袭三塔) (The Towers of Paine, Chile)"},{"t":"p","x":"为了获得更高的拍摄成功率，我和队友Thomas在百内国家公园以“阿式登山”的方式摄影，在W线的入口处，凌晨一点（看准天气）开始向“三塔”登山徒步，经过五个半小时的奔袭，在日出前赶到了著名的“百内三塔”，努力的人运气都不会太差，魔幻的红云是老天最大的奖赏！","b":false,"xe":"To improve our chances of a successful shoot, my teammate Thomas and I shot in Torres del Paine National Park in \"alpine style.\" At the entrance of the W route, at 1 a.m. (after checking the weather), we began hiking toward the \"Three Towers.\" After a five-and-a-half-hour push, we arrived at the famous \"Towers of Paine\" before sunrise. Those who work hard are rarely unlucky — the magical red clouds were heaven's greatest reward!"},{"t":"img","f":"img-25","w":1080,"h":720},{"t":"p","x":"《栈桥旧梦》（智利 纳塔莱斯港）","b":false,"xe":"\"Old Dreams on the Jetty\" (栈桥旧梦) (Puerto Natales, Chile)"},{"t":"p","x":"在智利百内国家公园拍摄的非常顺利，虽然白天都会下雨，但是每天早上基本都是特别好的天气，接下来乘坐大巴到纳塔莱斯港，这是巴塔哥尼亚地区智利来往阿根廷的重要口岸。","b":false,"xe":"Shooting at Chile's Torres del Paine National Park went very smoothly. Although it rained during the days, every morning brought exceptionally good weather. Next, we took a bus to Puerto Natales, an important gateway in Patagonia for travel between Chile and Argentina."},{"t":"p","x":"口岸有个很大的港口，有一座废弃的栈桥延伸到远方的雪山，无数海鸟在这栖息，落在栈桥上的破木桩上。第二天一早我们在纳塔莱斯港乘坐大巴过境前往阿根廷。大巴到了阿根廷境内，路面也由柏油路变成了土路，路的两边也都是荒漠，一片荒凉景象，感觉阿根廷经历的经济危机之后，百废待兴。","b":false,"xe":"The port has a large harbor with an abandoned jetty extending toward the distant snow mountains, where countless seabirds perch on its weathered wooden posts. Early the next morning, we took a bus from Puerto Natales across the border into Argentina. Once in Argentina, the road changed from asphalt to dirt, with desert on both sides — a desolate scene. It felt like Argentina, after its economic crisis, was waiting to be rebuilt."},{"t":"p","x":"一路颠簸，耳机里响着的还是那曲《Crossing Winds》，终于在路的尽头看到了梦中的菲茨罗伊峰。","b":true,"xe":"Bumping along the road, still with \"Crossing Winds\" playing in my earphones, I finally saw the Fitz Roy of my dreams at the end of the road."},{"t":"h","x":"3","xe":"3"},{"t":"p","x":"菲茨罗伊峰","b":false,"xe":"Fitz Roy"},{"t":"p","x":"菲茨罗伊峰，在巴塔哥尼亚大冰原的东部山岭中，是一系列垂直岩石山峰中的一个高峰。","b":false,"xe":"Fitz Roy, in the eastern ranges of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, is one of a series of towering vertical rock peaks."},{"t":"p","x":"几个紧凑的山峰组合，突兀矗立在冰川的沿线，而菲茨罗伊系列峰，显得尤为醒目壮观。它浑然的岩石塔型山体，是如此令人难以置信的陡峭，对于攀登者来讲，这是世界上最漂亮的岩石大墙。","b":false,"xe":"A tight cluster of summits rises abruptly along the glacier line, and the Fitz Roy group stands out as especially striking and magnificent. Its monolithic rock-tower mass is incredibly steep — for climbers, it's the most beautiful big rock wall in the world."},{"t":"p","x":"菲茨罗伊峰，巴塔哥尼亚的特维尔切人非常崇敬地称之为“Chalten”，意为“吞云吐雾的山”。菲茨罗伊峰峰顶经常笼罩一团烟雾，所以在1952年法国人登顶之前，人们都误以为它是一个火山。","b":false,"xe":"Fitz Roy is reverently called \"Chaltén\" by the Tehuelche people of Patagonia, meaning \"mountain that swallows clouds.\" A wisp of smoke often shrouds the summit, so before the French first summited it in 1952, people mistakenly thought it was a volcano."},{"t":"p","x":"《月照金山》(阿根廷 )","b":false,"xe":"\"Moonlit Golden Mountain\" (月照金山) (Argentina)"},{"t":"p","x":"图片故事：因为去菲茨罗伊峰（fitz roy）的这个峡谷要徒手攀岩一段小悬崖，而且根本没有路都是乱石和碎石滑坡非常难走，走夜路那更加的危险，于是我决定还是白天轻装进峡谷，不带帐篷，带着睡袋在大石头缝里露宿，就是为了拍摄最美的菲茨罗伊峰的月照金山。","b":false,"xe":"Image story: Reaching the canyon at Fitz Roy requires free-climbing a small cliff, and there's no trail at all — just loose rocks and scree slopes that are very hard to traverse. Walking at night would be even more dangerous. So I decided to enter the canyon light by day, carrying no tent and sleeping out in the crevices between boulders with just a sleeping bag — all to capture the most beautiful moonlit golden mountain of Fitz Roy."},{"t":"img","f":"img-26","w":1080,"h":720},{"t":"p","x":"第二天清晨，天还没亮，就爬到上面的悬崖绝壁，可以俯视整个湖面，即使是悬崖峭壁，也有生命在这里顽强地生长。","b":false,"xe":"The next morning, before dawn, I climbed up to the cliff above, where I could look down over the entire lake. Even on sheer cliffs, life stubbornly grows here."},{"t":"p","x":"天还没亮，菲兹洛伊峰已经泛起了红光，再次验证巴塔哥尼亚地区会出现两次日照金山。随着太阳的逐渐升高，山头先是失去光芒，转瞬间才迎来真正的辉煌时刻。","b":false,"xe":"Before dawn, Fitz Roy was already glowing red, again confirming that Patagonia experiences two golden-mountain events. As the sun rose higher, the peak first lost its glow, then in an instant embraced its true moment of glory."},{"t":"img","f":"img-27","w":1080,"h":685},{"t":"p","x":"那条蓝色天空与橙色的菲茨罗伊峰的轮廓线清晰可见，让每一个看到它的人情不自禁地想象自己沿着那条山脊一路上下攀登。天际线——天际之上的攀登是顶尖高手的梦想，横穿整条菲茨罗伊峰的天际线，需要连续攀登7座山峰，这条路线被称为天际（Skyline） 路线。","b":false,"xe":"The clear silhouette of the orange Fitz Roy against the blue sky makes everyone who sees it unable to resist imagining themselves climbing up and down along that ridge. The skyline — climbing above the skyline is a top climber's dream. Traversing the entire Fitz Roy skyline requires consecutively climbing 7 peaks, and this route is called the Skyline route."},{"t":"img","f":"img-28","w":1080,"h":608},{"t":"p","x":"Skyline 路线图","b":false,"xe":"Skyline Route Map"},{"t":"p","x":"对横穿天际的畅想由来已久，但始终没有人能真正完成。2014年2月12日至16日，美国人汤米·考德威尔和亚历克斯·汉诺尔德创造了 Skyline 路线的史上首次穿越。穿越 Skyline 的路线总长6400米，其中一半是垂直攀登。","b":false,"xe":"The dream of traversing the skyline had long existed, but no one had ever truly completed it. From February 12 to 16, 2014, Americans Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold made the first-ever traverse of the Skyline route. The total length of the Skyline traverse is 6,400 meters, half of which is vertical climbing."},{"t":"img","f":"img-29","w":1080,"h":720},{"t":"p","x":"汤米和亚历克斯出发时，他们发现另外两位登山者罗兰多（Rolando）和科林（Colin）也要穿越 Skyline。罗兰多和科林都是身经百战的专业登山者，而且是巴塔哥尼亚登山的专家。","b":false,"xe":"When Tommy and Alex set out, they found that two other climbers, Rolando and Colin, also intended to traverse the Skyline. Both Rolando and Colin were battle-hardened professional climbers and experts in Patagonian climbing."},{"t":"p","x":"汤米和亚历克斯在他们面前意识到了竞争，他们都想第一个穿越 Skyline 的7座山峰。这是攀岩技术和高山技术的对决。","b":true,"xe":"Tommy and Alex sensed the competition. They all wanted to be the first to traverse the Skyline's 7 peaks. It was a duel between rock-climbing skill and alpine technique."},{"t":"img","f":"img-30","w":1080,"h":1619},{"t":"p","x":"高海拔登山经验不足的亚历克斯，犯了一个大错。他的冰爪和他的鞋并不配套，那种冰爪需要高山靴卡扣，但他穿的是轻便的登山鞋，攀登的难度就大大增加，而且可能会很危险，因为冰爪随时可能脱落下来。","b":false,"xe":"Alex, lacking high-altitude experience, made a big mistake. His crampons didn't match his shoes — that type of crampon requires mountaineering boots with clips, but he was wearing light hiking shoes. This greatly increased the difficulty and danger of the climb, as the crampons could fall off at any moment."},{"t":"p","x":"汤米攀登途中遇到罗兰多，他身体突然不适，他们决定下撤。当罗兰多得知亚历克斯的冰爪无法正常使用却仍要坚持攀登，就拆下自己的冰爪送给了他。亚历克斯说：“罗兰多放弃了自己穿越菲茨罗伊的梦想，却给了我完成穿越最急需的工具，他的心胸让我十分敬佩。”这感人的一幕，让冰冷的雪山有了情谊的温度。","b":false,"xe":"During the climb, Tommy met Rolando, who suddenly felt unwell and they decided to descend. When Rolando learned that Alex's crampons were unusable yet Alex insisted on continuing, he removed his own crampons and gave them to him. Alex said: \"Rolando gave up his dream of traversing Fitz Roy but gave me the tool I most desperately needed to complete the traverse. His generosity deeply impresses me.\" This touching moment gave the cold snow mountains the warmth of friendship."},{"t":"h","x":"4","xe":"4"},{"t":"p","x":"托雷峰","b":false,"xe":"Cerro Torre"},{"t":"p","x":"离菲茨罗伊峰不远，有另一座充满传奇的山峰。它因为独特的外形而辨识度极高，花岗岩的巨塔诱惑着登山者的目光。这便是托雷峰（Cerro Torre）。","b":false,"xe":"Not far from Fitz Roy lies another legendary peak. With its highly recognizable unique form, the great granite tower tempts the eyes of climbers. This is Cerro Torre."},{"t":"img","f":"img-31","w":1080,"h":1568},{"t":"p","x":"托雷峰以其醒目的外形和极高的难度闻名。它是典型的花岗岩巨塔式山峰，尖锐的主峰像一柄长剑直刺云天。在山峰的最顶端，有一个高达50米的冰蘑菇，这给登顶带来了额外的难度。而西风带疾风劲吹，给托雷峰带来了大量的降雪和风暴，使得攀登的环境十分不利。","b":false,"xe":"Cerro Torre is famous for its striking appearance and extreme difficulty. It's a classic granite tower peak, its sharp summit like a longsword piercing the sky. At the very top sits a 50-meter ice mushroom, adding extra difficulty to the summit. The fierce westerly winds bring heavy snowfall and storms to Cerro Torre, making the climbing environment very unfavorable."},{"t":"p","x":"托雷峰顶端的冰蘑菇是攀登最后的难点。托雷峰的难度让攀登变成了一场极具挑战性的冒险，登顶托雷峰更是无数登山者梦寐以求的成就。数十年来，登山者对托雷峰的追求从未停止。","b":false,"xe":"The ice mushroom atop Cerro Torre is the final crux of the climb. The mountain's difficulty turns the climb into an extremely challenging adventure, and summiting Cerro Torre is an achievement countless climbers dream of. For decades, climbers' pursuit of Cerro Torre has never ceased."},{"t":"img","f":"img-32","w":1080,"h":720},{"t":"p","x":"无休的争议——1959年，马埃斯特里和艾格尔攀登了托雷峰。他们向上攀登花了四天，但在下撤的途中遭遇了雪崩，艾格尔遇难了。","b":false,"xe":"Endless controversy — In 1959, Maestri and Egger climbed Cerro Torre. The ascent took four days, but on the way down they were hit by an avalanche, and Egger lost his life."},{"t":"p","x":"之后，马埃斯特里宣称他们创造了托雷峰的史上首次登顶。但是，由于照相机在雪崩中丢失了，他无法拿出任何登顶的证据。","b":false,"xe":"Afterwards, Maestri claimed they'd made the first-ever summit of Cerro Torre. But since the camera was lost in the avalanche, he couldn't produce any evidence of the summit."},{"t":"p","x":"于是，马埃斯特里和艾格尔登顶的真实性就成了一个谜。后来的登山者在他们两人登山路线沿途也并没有发现固定绳索等遗迹和遗留的登山器材，这就让1959年的“登顶”愈加饱受争议。","b":false,"xe":"Thus the truth of Maestri and Egger's summit became a mystery. Later climbers found no fixed ropes or other relics and climbing gear left along their route, making the 1959 \"summit\" increasingly controversial."},{"t":"img","f":"img-33","w":1080,"h":720},{"t":"p","x":"1970年，马埃斯特里又回到了托雷峰。这一次，他带了一台150公斤级石油驱动的压缩空气钻，一边沿途向山体中打入螺栓，一边借助螺栓攀登。近400个膨胀螺栓打入托雷峰的身体内，马埃斯特里凭借这个“螺栓梯”攀登到了托雷峰岩石部分的尽头。","b":false,"xe":"In 1970, Maestri returned to Cerro Torre. This time he brought a 150-kilogram oil-powered compressor drill, driving bolts into the rock as he climbed. Nearly 400 expansion bolts were hammered into the mountain, and Maestri used this \"bolt ladder\" to climb to the end of Cerro Torre's rock section."},{"t":"p","x":"之后他拒绝攀登山顶50米高的冰蘑菇，他坚持认为那不是托雷峰的一部分，总有一天会从山上脱落下来。这也只是他自欺欺人的托词罢了。","b":false,"xe":"After that, he refused to climb the 50-meter ice mushroom at the top, insisting it wasn't part of Cerro Torre and would one day fall off the mountain. This was just his self-deceiving excuse."},{"t":"img","f":"img-34","w":1080,"h":720},{"t":"p","x":"《红与白》（阿根廷）","b":false,"xe":"\"Red and White\" (红与白) (Argentina)"},{"t":"p","x":"对托雷峰的追求伴随着无休止的争议，当然，也有对“真正的登山”的思考。除了焦点人物的故事，每一名前往巴塔哥尼亚的登山者，都希望用自己的方式在托雷峰留下印记。","b":false,"xe":"The pursuit of Cerro Torre is accompanied by endless controversy — and, of course, reflection on \"true alpinism.\" Beyond the stories of the central figures, every climber who comes to Patagonia hopes to leave their own mark on Cerro Torre in their own way."},{"t":"img","f":"img-35","w":1080,"h":720},{"t":"p","x":"《冷暖自知》（阿根廷）","b":false,"xe":"\"Only the Wearer Knows the Cold\" (冷暖自知) (Argentina)"},{"t":"p","x":"谁能第一个站上托雷峰？电影《石头的呐喊》中也虚构的演绎了登顶托雷峰的故事，登顶托雷峰是登山界的一大荣誉，也引发了一场赌约。","b":false,"xe":"Who would be the first to stand atop Cerro Torre? The film \"The Scream of the Stone\" (《石头的喊叫》) also fictionalized the story of summiting Cerro Torre. Reaching the top of Cerro Torre is a great honor in the climbing world, and it sparked a wager."},{"t":"p","x":"罗杰与马丁，一位是成就卓越的登山家，一位是展露头角的攀岩新星，他们在商业利益的裹挟下，陷入了一场疯狂的竞赛。然而他们都忘了，登山本该纯粹。倘若登山被利益裹挟，沦为竞赛比拼，甚至附上谎言，登山就失去了乐趣和意义。所以最终，他们被一个纯粹的登山疯子狠狠讽刺。","b":false,"xe":"Roger and Martin — one an accomplished mountaineer, the other a rising rock-climbing star. Swept up by commercial interests, they fell into a frenzied competition. Yet they both forgot that climbing should be pure. If climbing is seized by profit, reduced to a contest, or even burdened with lies, it loses its joy and meaning. In the end, they were sharply mocked by a pure climbing madman."},{"t":"p","x":"当罗杰登上峰顶，以为自己成功首登的时候，看到一支破旧的冰镐竖立在顶峰的中央，在冰镐之上，挂了一幅相片，相片上清楚写着“梅·韦斯”，正是罗杰在山下遇到的神秘疯子口中所述的著名影星。——登山本该纯粹！","b":false,"xe":"When Roger reached the summit and believed he'd made the first ascent, he saw an old, worn ice axe standing in the center of the peak. Hanging on the axe was a photo clearly inscribed \"Mae West\" — the famous actress that the mysterious madman Roger had met at the foot of the mountain had mentioned. — Climbing should be pure!"},{"t":"img","f":"img-36","w":1080,"h":688},{"t":"p","x":"《巴塔哥尼亚秋色》（阿根廷 托雷峰）","b":false,"xe":"\"Autumn Colors of Patagonia\" (巴塔哥尼亚秋色) (Cerro Torre, Argentina)"},{"t":"p","x":"阿根廷登山者拉米罗·卡尔沃（Ramiro Calvo）对托雷峰的魅力深深着迷，他不仅两次攀登托雷峰，还把他的攀登过程拍成了电影《Ritmo Latino》。1997年，卡尔沃所在的登山队首战托雷峰。几乎大功告成，但是最后的冰蘑菇没能登上去，在那里难倒许多登山队无功而返。","b":false,"xe":"Argentine climber Ramiro Calvo is deeply fascinated by Cerro Torre's allure. Not only did he climb Cerro Torre twice, he also filmed his climbing into the movie \"Ritmo Latino.\" In 1997, Calvo's climbing team made their first attempt on Cerro Torre. They nearly succeeded, but couldn't get up the final ice mushroom — where many teams have been turned back fruitlessly."},{"t":"img","f":"img-37","w":800,"h":1200},{"t":"p","x":"《雪脉相连》（阿根廷）","b":false,"xe":"\"Snow Peaks Connected\" (雪脉相连) (Argentina)"},{"t":"p","x":"2005年，卡尔沃又回到了托雷峰。一路上，他们一边攀登一边拍摄，说道“我不喜欢人们把攀登世界高峰说成是著名登山家的专利，我觉得任何人都可以在登山中找到自己的乐趣。”","b":false,"xe":"In 2005, Calvo returned to Cerro Torre. Along the way, they climbed and filmed, saying, \"I don't like people saying that climbing the world's great peaks is the exclusive preserve of famous mountaineers. I think anyone can find their own joy in climbing.\""},{"t":"p","x":"他们终于回到了冰蘑菇之下，7年前止步的地方。他们在冰面上开辟出攀登的路径，终于站上了托雷峰顶。卡尔沃用自己对托雷峰的执着追求，狠狠打脸了马埃斯特这个在托雷峰打了400个膨胀螺栓的登山骗子！最后还是那句话——登山本该纯粹！","b":false,"xe":"They finally returned beneath the ice mushroom, where they'd stopped 7 years earlier. They opened a climbing route across the ice and finally stood atop Cerro Torre. With his unwavering pursuit of Cerro Torre, Calvo slapped the face of Maestri, the climbing fraud who'd hammered 400 expansion bolts into the mountain! In the end, it's still that saying — climbing should be pure!"},{"t":"p","x":"结语","b":false,"xe":"Conclusion"},{"t":"p","x":"End","b":false,"xe":"End"},{"t":"img","f":"img-38","w":1080,"h":743},{"t":"p","x":"《仰望》（智利 角峰）","b":false,"xe":"\"Looking Up\" (仰望) (Cuernos, Chile)"},{"t":"p","x":"人们对高峰的仰望从没有停止过，岁月走过光阴的沧海，一个月的巴塔哥尼亚之旅结束之际，这个神秘而又传奇的地方给我留下了什么？恐怕只有风吹过心灵的痕迹！","b":false,"xe":"People's gaze upward at the peaks has never ceased. As time passes through the vast sea of years, at the end of my month-long Patagonia journey, what did this mysterious and legendary place leave me with? Perhaps only the trace of wind passing through my soul!"},{"t":"p","x":"相关游记：","b":false,"xe":"Related Travel Notes:"},{"t":"p","x":"《2016年，我最难忘的一张照片》","b":false,"xe":"\"My Most Unforgettable Photo of 2016\""},{"t":"p","x":"《遍览14座8000米雪山，只需徒步这5条世界级路线》","b":false,"xe":"\"See All 14 Peaks Above 8,000 Meters by Hiking Just These 5 World-Class Routes\""},{"t":"p","x":"《这里是喀喇昆仑山脉！中巴边界的绝美雪山群！》","b":false,"xe":"\"This Is the Karakoram! The Gorgeous Snow Mountains on the China-Pakistan Border!\""},{"t":"p","x":"《翻越死亡垭口 - 意外发现喜马拉雅深处的天堂》","b":false,"xe":"\"Crossing the Death Pass - Accidentally Discovering a Paradise Deep in the Himalayas\""},{"t":"p","x":"《世界上最震撼的雪山冰川群就在这里！》","b":false,"xe":"\"The World's Most Breathtaking Snow Mountains and Glaciers Are Right Here!\""},{"t":"p","x":"相关摄影团：","b":false,"xe":"Related Photography Workshops:"},{"t":"p","x":"阿根廷巴塔哥尼亚金秋摄影团","b":false,"xe":"Argentina Patagonia Golden Autumn Photography Workshop"},{"t":"h","x":"极影AdventureX","xe":"Jiying AdventureX (极影AdventureX)"},{"t":"h","x":"极限挑战","xe":"Push the Limits"},{"t":"h","x":"极致影像","xe":"Ultimate Imagery"},{"t":"h","x":"极客分享","xe":"Geek Sharing"},{"t":"h","x":"http://www.theadventurex.com","xe":"http://www.theadventurex.com"}],"titleEn":"How Beautiful Is Patagonia?"}