{"slug":"low-noise-iso-night","title":"如何拍照噪点最少？最全夜景/室内摄影攻略来了，ISO原来应该这么设置！","author":"Thomas看看世界","date":"2022-02-06","wechat":"https://mp.weixin.qq.com/s?__biz=MzI4NDA5MzE5NQ==&mid=2247494538&idx=1&sn=1d0d13d812f54aa0310bc72f4f67c85d&chksm=eb8215eedcf59cf8cccf27c9b08f65ab6dbea0822d5571acd877aa15fc805dffa6394454ff21&scene=21#wechat_redirect","blocks":[{"t":"h","x":"Thomas看看世界","xe":"Thomas Chu Photo"},{"t":"h","x":"照片噪点主要是由高ISO造成的吗？","xe":"Is noise mainly caused by high ISO?"},{"t":"p","x":"很多摄影爱好者都有上面这样的误区，导致该提高ISO的时候不敢提高，该用更好方法解决噪点问题的时候却不知道。","b":false,"xe":"Many enthusiasts share this misconception — afraid to raise ISO when they should, yet unaware of better ways to tackle noise."},{"t":"p","x":"因此在今天的摄影教程中，我会向大家分析照片噪点的三个真正最大来源。并提出多种解决方案，在城市夜景、星空、极光等各种弱光环境下，帮大家解决前期拍摄的噪点问题。","b":false,"xe":"So in today's tutorial I'll analyze the three true biggest sources of image noise and offer multiple solutions for city nights, starry skies, auroras and other low-light scenarios."},{"t":"img","f":"img-02","w":1080,"h":1350},{"t":"h","x":"视频教程","xe":"Video Tutorial"},{"t":"bili","bv":"BV1MP4y1P7dN","bpic":"bili-1","bt":"如何拍照噪点最少？最全夜景/室内摄影攻略来了，ISO原来应该这么设置！"},{"t":"p","x":"这一篇是上面视频的图文整理。银河、极光、城市夜景、弱光人像——这些极弱光环境下拍出的照片，噪点却并不夸张，靠的不是运气而是一套系统方法。Thomas 在视频中拆解了噪点产生的真正原因与完整的解决方案，本文配以视频关键帧截图，把这套「降噪系统」整理成文字。","xe":"This is the illustrated companion to the video above. Milky Way, aurora, city nights, low-light portraits — pictures shot in extremely dim light yet remarkably clean, thanks not to luck but to a system. In the video, Thomas breaks down what actually causes noise and how to fight it; this article turns that system into text with keyframe screenshots."},{"t":"img","f":"v01","w":768,"h":480},{"t":"img","f":"v13","w":768,"h":480},{"t":"h","x":"01 噪点三大来源：颠覆认知的排序","xe":"01 The Three Causes of Noise: a Ranking That Defies Intuition"},{"t":"p","x":"很多人以为照片噪点多是 ISO 设得太高，事实并非如此（视频 0:39 处）。对现代相机而言，噪点的三大原因按重要性递减依次是：第一，弱进光量——照片噪点更多是散粒噪声，由光的物理特性决定，低光环境或快门设置失误导致严重欠曝都会造成进光量不足；第二，弱光暗部的后期提亮——原本就没被照亮的地方，提亮后会产生大量噪点和严重色彩问题；第三才是高 ISO——它是数码放大，同时还会带来更低的宽容度。","xe":"Many believe noisy photos come from setting ISO too high — in fact that is not the case (at 0:39 in the video). For modern cameras the three causes, in decreasing order of importance, are: first, low total light — noise is mostly shot noise, a physical property of light, caused by dim environments or mis-set shutters that badly underexpose; second, lifting shadow areas that never received light — this multiplies noise and brings severe color problems; and only third, high ISO — a form of digital amplification that also costs dynamic range."},{"t":"img","f":"v02","w":768,"h":480},{"t":"p","x":"视频里有一张向左曝光、整体欠曝一点的城市夜景案例（视频 1:56 处）。提亮之后可以看到：路面噪点不多，因为它被路灯和城市光线照亮过；黑色窗户更糟，因为光照很少；噪点最严重的是天空——城市光照几乎影响不到它，信噪比极低，提亮后不光噪点爆炸，还会出现各种色彩问题，因为色彩需要一定亮度才能呈现。","xe":"The video shows a city night case shot slightly underexposed, exposed to the left (at 1:56 in the video). After lifting: the road stays fairly clean because streetlights and city glow lit it; the black windows are worse, starved of light; the sky is the noisiest of all — almost untouched by city light, its signal-to-noise ratio is so low that brightening it up explodes with noise and color mottling, since color needs a certain brightness to render at all."},{"t":"img","f":"v08","w":768,"h":480},{"t":"img","f":"v03","w":768,"h":480},{"t":"h","x":"02 增加进光量：补光、大光圈、长曝光堆栈","xe":"02 Gathering Light: Fill, Fast Lenses, Stacking"},{"t":"p","x":"既然噪点的主因不是高 ISO，光线充足时反而要勇敢用它：白天需要极小光圈或高速快门时，ISO 提到 800、1600 都不必害怕——Thomas 在行驶的火车上用 f/4、1/3200 秒、ISO 800 拍摄，只要后期不对暗部大幅提亮，噪点几乎看不出来（视频 5:33 处）。","xe":"Since high ISO is not the main culprit, use it boldly when light is plentiful: in daylight, when you need tiny apertures or fast shutters, ISO 800 or 1600 is nothing to fear — Thomas shot from a moving train at f/4, 1/3200 s, ISO 800, and as long as shadows are not lifted hard in post, noise is barely visible (at 5:33 in the video)."},{"t":"p","x":"解决噪点的最佳方式是增加进光量（视频 6:13 处），有三种途径。补光：拍银河可以选月亮很小（四分之一月以下）的夜晚——月光不干扰银河，却能极好地给地面补光；拍夜景人像让模特站在路灯照得到的地方；街拍人像用闪光灯、拍环境用补光灯，既平衡光比又减少噪点。大光圈：拍夜景人像和银河星空最好用 f/1.8、f/1.4 的大光圈镜头。长曝光与堆栈：夜景常曝光十几二十秒；银河超过 30 秒会拖线星轨，就用堆栈实现等效长曝光，或者上赤道仪。","xe":"The best way to cut noise is gathering more light (at 6:13 in the video), via three routes. Fill light: for the Milky Way choose nights with a small moon (below quarter) — moonlight won't wash out the galaxy yet lights the ground beautifully; for night portraits, place your subject under streetlights; use flash for street portraits and fill lights for scenes — balancing contrast while cutting noise. Fast apertures: f/1.8 or f/1.4 lenses are ideal for night portraits and astrophotography. Long exposure and stacking: night shots often run 15-20 s; beyond 30 s the Milky Way trails, so stack frames for an equivalent long exposure, or mount the camera on an equatorial tracker."},{"t":"img","f":"v10","w":768,"h":480},{"t":"img","f":"v09","w":768,"h":480},{"t":"img","f":"v05","w":768,"h":480},{"t":"h","x":"03 参数口诀：最大原生 ISO 与向右曝光","xe":"03 The Settings Mantra: Max Native ISO and ETTR"},{"t":"p","x":"当环境决定了进光量无法增加时，记住这句口诀（视频 8:25 处）：首先保证光圈和快门安全——景深要装下你想清晰的一切，快门要保证主体不糊；其次保证亮度不过曝，因为高 ISO 会降低宽容度；最后把 ISO 设置为曝光合理时的最大原生 ISO——该 6400 就 6400，该 12800 就 12800。向右曝光（较亮但不过曝）加高 ISO，或者正常曝光加中 ISO，最终画质一定优于欠曝配低 ISO 再后期提亮——老款相机是极大优于，现代 ISO-LESS 相机也是略优于。一定不要欠曝后期提亮。","xe":"When the scene simply offers no more light, remember this mantra (at 8:25 in the video): first keep aperture and shutter safe — depth of field covers what must be sharp, shutter keeps the subject unblurred; second keep highlights from clipping, since high ISO reduces dynamic range; finally set ISO to the highest native value that yields a proper exposure — 6400 when it's 6400, 12800 when it's 12800. Exposing to the right (bright but not clipped) with high ISO, or normal exposure with mid ISO, always beats underexposing at low ISO and lifting in post — hugely better on older cameras, slightly better even on modern ISO-LESS bodies. Never underexpose and brighten later."},{"t":"img","f":"v04","w":768,"h":480},{"t":"h","x":"04 实战案例：迪士尼与格聂南线","xe":"04 Case Studies: Disneyland and the Genie South Line"},{"t":"p","x":"迪士尼案例：园内不允许携带三脚架和闪光灯，单张出片（视频 10:36 处）。光圈开到镜头最大的 f/1.8，但要接受前景人物因此虚化；快门取 1/30 秒——烟花不会拉出轨迹，人站着也不糊；最后调 ISO：保证烟花过曝程度可接受的前提下开到 3200，城堡本身有灯光，人物有路灯余光，亮度都能接受。天空和树木暗部噪点最多，好在天空是纯色，后期直接用画笔重画了一遍；但人物、树木、城堡没法重画，所以前期就要保证主体不要太暗。","xe":"Disneyland case: tripods and flash are banned inside, so one single frame it is (at 10:36 in the video). Open the lens to its maximum f/1.8, accepting that the foreground person softens; 1/30 s keeps the fireworks from trailing while the standing person stays sharp; then ISO last — 3200, as long as the clipped fireworks remain acceptable, with the lit castle and the person catching streetlight glow reading fine. The sky and tree shadows hold the most noise; luckily the sky is a flat tone and was repainted with a brush in post — but the person, trees and castle cannot be repainted, so keep your subjects from going too dark in the field."},{"t":"img","f":"v11","w":768,"h":480},{"t":"p","x":"格聂南线案例：用时间合成让画面不同区域各得其所（视频 13:01 处）。背景用 ISO 100、f/8、30 秒长曝光，曝光合理、宽容度高、噪点极少；走动的人物用 ISO 6400、f/4（镜头最大光圈）、1/40 秒，向镜头走来不会糊——若左右走动则需要 1/100 秒。Thomas 复盘说 6400 还是保守了，不如前期直接开到 12800：前期提高 ISO 的噪点，一定比后期提亮更少。","xe":"The Genie South Line case: time blending gives each region of the frame its own recipe (at 13:01 in the video). The background: ISO 100, f/8, 30 s — proper exposure, high dynamic range, minimal noise; the walking figure: ISO 6400, f/4 (the lens's maximum), 1/40 s — sharp when walking toward the camera, though side-to-side movement would need 1/100 s. Looking back, Thomas finds 6400 conservative — he would shoot 12800 natively: raising ISO in camera always beats raising brightness in post."},{"t":"img","f":"v12","w":768,"h":480},{"t":"img","f":"v06","w":768,"h":480},{"t":"p","x":"最后总结（视频 14:08 处）：高噪点主要由弱进光量和弱光暗部提亮带来，其次才是高 ISO，别本末倒置；减少噪点最好的方式是通过补光、长曝光/堆栈、大光圈增加进光量；用时间合成技术最小化高噪点区域，用曝光合成技术解决高 ISO 宽容度低的问题；前两者都用不上时，在保证安全光圈和快门的前提下，首先保证亮部不过曝，然后把 ISO 设置为曝光合理时的最大原生 ISO。","xe":"To sum up (at 14:08 in the video): heavy noise comes chiefly from low total light and lifted shadows, with high ISO only second — keep the order straight; the best noise reduction is gathering more light through fill, long exposure/stacking and fast apertures; use time blending to shrink high-noise regions and exposure blending to overcome high-ISO dynamic-range limits; when neither applies, keep aperture and shutter safe, protect highlights from clipping, and set ISO to the highest native value that gives a proper exposure."},{"t":"img","f":"v07","w":768,"h":480},{"t":"quote","x":"1. 噪点三大来源按重要性排序：弱进光量 > 弱光暗部后期提亮 > 高 ISO，把锅都甩给高感光度是本末倒置；2. 降噪的最佳手段发生在按下快门之前：月光环境光补光、f/1.4-f/1.8 大光圈、长曝光与堆栈，本质都是增加进光量；3. 单张口诀：光圈快门安全、亮部不过曝、ISO 开到曝光合理时的最大原生值，向右曝光优于欠曝后期提亮；4. 时间合成缩小高噪点区域，曝光合成化解高 ISO 的宽容度短板，让画面每个区域都用上最优方案。","xe":"1. Rank the causes straight: low total light beats lifted shadows beats high ISO — blaming high sensitivity alone inverts the truth; 2. The best noise reduction happens before the shutter falls: moonlight and ambient fill, f/1.4-f/1.8 lenses, long exposures and stacks — all just ways to gather light; 3. The single-frame mantra: safe aperture and shutter, unclipped highlights, ISO at the highest native value that exposes properly — ETTR beats underexposing and lifting; 4. Time blending shrinks noisy regions, exposure blending rescues dynamic range, letting every part of the frame get its optimal treatment."},{"t":"h","x":"PPT","xe":"Slides"},{"t":"img","f":"img-03","w":960,"h":600},{"t":"img","f":"img-04","w":1080,"h":720},{"t":"img","f":"img-05","w":1080,"h":635},{"t":"img","f":"img-06","w":1080,"h":710},{"t":"img","f":"img-07","w":1080,"h":722},{"t":"img","f":"img-08","w":1067,"h":1600},{"t":"img","f":"img-09","w":1080,"h":720},{"t":"img","f":"img-10","w":1080,"h":720},{"t":"img","f":"img-11","w":1080,"h":720},{"t":"img","f":"img-12","w":1069,"h":1600},{"t":"img","f":"img-13","w":960,"h":600},{"t":"img","f":"img-14","w":960,"h":600},{"t":"img","f":"img-15","w":960,"h":600},{"t":"img","f":"img-16","w":960,"h":600},{"t":"img","f":"img-17","w":1080,"h":754},{"t":"img","f":"img-18","w":1080,"h":1020},{"t":"img","f":"img-19","w":960,"h":600},{"t":"img","f":"img-20","w":960,"h":600},{"t":"img","f":"img-21","w":960,"h":600},{"t":"img","f":"img-22","w":1080,"h":721},{"t":"img","f":"img-23","w":960,"h":600}],"titleEn":"How to Minimize Noise: The Complete Night & Indoor Photography Guide to ISO"}