{"slug":"winter-photography-tips","title":"冬季冰雪摄影注意事项！都是花上万块买来的教训。","author":"Thomas看看世界","date":"2019-01-08","wechat":"https://mp.weixin.qq.com/s?__biz=MzI4NDA5MzE5NQ==&mid=2247488134&idx=2&sn=6a3a18334ea961b2eca68dd6f72a7351&chksm=eb81ece2dcf665f4cda8e59d46ab5108c6d68465347e58a615076a5257d5225d8252ce31ac76&scene=21#wechat_redirect","blocks":[{"t":"h","x":"我是极影AX摄影师Joyous周游","xe":"I'm AdventureX photographer Joyous (Zhou You)"},{"t":"img","f":"img-01","w":1080,"h":827},{"t":"h","x":"引言","xe":"Introduction"},{"t":"p","x":"寒冬腊月，当大雪纷飞，冰雪覆盖大地时，正是冰雪摄影的大好时机。但是，冰雪照片拍了很多很多，可真正打动人心的佳作却很少很少。","b":false,"xe":"In deep winter, when heavy snow flies and ice covers the land, it's prime time for ice-and-snow photography. Countless snow photos are taken — yet very few truly move people."},{"t":"p","x":"特别是摄影爱好者，看到冰雪满心欢喜，但是片子拍完却很少有满意之作。究其原因，恐怕是未掌握其拍摄要领，对冰雪摄影的特殊性缺少了解之故。作为一名东北的风光摄影师，针对这些情况，结合多年来拍摄冰雪的经验教训，谈谈冰雪摄影的要领。","b":false,"xe":"Enthusiasts especially greet ice and snow with joy, yet rarely come home satisfied. The reason is usually a failure to grasp the essentials and the particularities of snow photography. As a landscape photographer from Northeast China, I'll share the essentials drawn from years of hard-won experience."},{"t":"img","f":"img-02","w":640,"h":426},{"t":"p","x":"雪景摄影之所以难，第一首先条件艰苦、不能像平时那样死磕，在雪地里等光线，因为人和摄影器材都受不了。","b":false,"xe":"Snow photography is hard, first of all, because conditions are brutal: you can't just stubbornly wait for light in a snowfield as usual — neither you nor your gear can take it."},{"t":"p","x":"因此雪景摄影更需要对于天气、环境准确的预判，运筹帷幄之中，决胜千里之外。除此之外还要有坚忍不拔的毅力。","b":true,"xe":"So snow photography demands accurate prediction of weather and environment — planning within the tent, victory a thousand miles away — plus unyielding perseverance."},{"t":"img","f":"img-03","w":1080,"h":652},{"t":"p","x":"为了拍摄广袤的林海雪原，独自一人背着帐篷走进了人迹罕至的林海雪原深处，这里没有人，更不会有什么住宿条件。","b":false,"xe":"To photograph the vast snowy forest sea, I carried a tent alone deep into trackless wilderness. No people, no lodging of any kind."},{"t":"p","x":"这里积雪足有一米厚，气温零下四十度，要想在这么恶劣的条件下活下去都困难，拍片就更加的困难，北风呼啸，吹过雪原，在雪原上留下风的痕迹，我只好在雪原上用工具挖出两米长，两米宽的雪坑，把帐篷一半埋在雪坑里避风.还好带了零下四十度温标的睡袋。","b":false,"xe":"The snow was a meter deep and the temperature −40°C. Survival itself was hard, let alone photography. The north wind howled across the plain, carving its tracks. I had to dig a pit two meters long and wide, half-burying my tent in it for shelter. Fortunately I had a sleeping bag rated for −40°C."},{"t":"p","x":"雪地露营","b":false,"xe":"Camping in the snow"},{"t":"img","f":"img-04","w":1080,"h":810},{"t":"img","f":"img-05","w":1080,"h":810},{"t":"p","x":"化雪煮面","b":false,"xe":"Melting snow to cook noodles"},{"t":"p","x":"但是到了晚上风很大，吹得帐篷好像马上要散了，我冻得要死，只好想办法不让自己冻死在这里，还好我带了气罐和烧水的户外炉头和锅，我打算融化一些雪水，烧成热水，灌在保温杯子里，喝一点热水，然后多余的水可以放在杯子里，把杯子当做热水袋，放在睡袋里，让自己暖和起来。","b":false,"xe":"That night the wind was so strong it seemed the tent would fly apart. Freezing, I had to find a way not to die there. Luckily I had a gas canister, an outdoor stove and a pot: I planned to melt snow, boil it, fill my thermos, drink some, and use the rest as a hot-water bottle inside my sleeping bag."},{"t":"p","x":"可是气温实在太低了，气罐的气不能气化，气罐根本点不着，我就用手搓，摇晃着气罐有10分钟，终于气罐燃起来了，也成功烧出些雪融化的水取暖，就这样成功在林海雪原里面露营了一晚，天道酬勤，第二天早上给了个非常好的火烧云天气，我徒手爬上防火瞭望塔，拍到了这张林海幻境。","b":false,"xe":"But it was so cold the gas wouldn't vaporize and the canister wouldn't light. I rubbed and shook it for ten minutes before it finally caught, melted some snow, and warmed myself — surviving a night camping in the forest sea. Diligence is rewarded: the next morning brought glorious fiery clouds, and I climbed the fire lookout tower barehanded to capture this 'Forest Sea Dreamland'."},{"t":"img","f":"img-06","w":1080,"h":720},{"t":"h","x":"实战中雪景摄影有哪些注意事项呢？","xe":"What should you watch out for when shooting snow in the field?"},{"t":"h","x":"1车辆安全","xe":"1. Vehicle Safety"},{"t":"p","x":"车辆更换防冻发动机油、防冻玻璃水、尽量不要开柴油车，更换雪地胎和防滑链，下坡时候不要猛踩刹车，过弯也不要踩刹车过弯。","b":true,"xe":"Switch to antifreeze engine oil and antifreeze washer fluid; avoid diesel cars; fit snow tires and chains. On descents, don't slam the brakes; don't brake through corners either."},{"t":"p","x":"雪地山路","b":false,"xe":"Snowy mountain roads"},{"t":"img","f":"img-07","w":1080,"h":1080},{"t":"img","f":"img-08","w":1080,"h":876},{"t":"p","x":"雪地胎+防滑链","b":false,"xe":"Snow tires + chains"},{"t":"h","x":"2人身安全","xe":"2. Personal Safety"},{"t":"img","f":"img-09","w":1080,"h":592},{"t":"p","x":"云顶天宫","b":false,"xe":"'Heavenly Palace Above the Clouds'"},{"t":"p","x":"在长白山拍摄的这张云顶天宫，当时把三脚架架在了悬崖的边缘，然后自己绕过去到对面的山顶自拍。晚上黑天瞎火的没意识到架三脚架的地方非常危险。第二天早上拍摄日出，从侧面一看，自己如果再把三脚架架得向前一步自己就有坠崖的可能，有生命危险，自己想想都后怕。","b":false,"xe":"For this shot at Changbai Mountain, I placed my tripod right at a cliff's edge, then circled to the opposite peak for a self-portrait. In the dark I hadn't realized how dangerous the tripod spot was. Shooting sunrise the next morning, I saw from the side: one more step forward with the tripod and I could have fallen. I still shudder thinking about it."},{"t":"p","x":"因为在北方下完雪，由于山顶风大，风将雪先固化，处于悬崖边缘的雪，再由风侵作用下面被掏空，然后再下新雪，周而复始，形成雪蘑菇，但是其实下面是完全空堂的，只要人踩上去，肯定崩塌滑坠。因此山地雪景摄影，一定要远离山体的边缘，尤其是夜晚看不清周围的地形的状况。","b":false,"xe":"In the North, after snowfall, summit winds compact the snow; wind then hollows out the snow at cliff edges from below, and new snow covers it again — cycle after cycle, forming 'snow mushrooms' that are completely hollow underneath. Step on one and it collapses. So in mountain snow photography, always stay away from cliff edges — especially at night, when the terrain is invisible."},{"t":"img","f":"img-10","w":1080,"h":532},{"t":"p","x":"日沉冰海","b":false,"xe":"'Sun Sinking into the Icy Sea'"},{"t":"p","x":"潮水一直在涨，冰都漂了起来，但是我知道，以后再也不会有机会拍摄这样的机位，这就是《雷霆之怒》那个机位从侧面看过去的角度，可能以后也不会有人冒险去拍这个角度，所以我还是狠狠心，站在浮冰上，堆栈长曝光，拍摄完了这个场景。","b":false,"xe":"The tide kept rising and the ice began to float. But I knew I'd never get this vantage point again — this is the side view of the 'Thunder's Fury' spot, an angle perhaps no one else would risk. So I steeled myself, stood on the floating ice, and finished the scene with stacked long exposures."},{"t":"p","x":"但是回撤的时候差点丢了小命，海浪很大，浮冰摆动的厉害，把我直接晃进了冰海里，我右手这时候还拿着RRS-33这么大的脚架包，不能游泳，而相机包背在背后，在危机关头我还是先把脚架包先抛在浮冰上，自己奋力的游泳，让后背尽量不沾水，可能是生存的本能，也顾不得冷，终于手抓住浮冰的边缘，爬了上去，要是浮冰把我挤在海底，我估计真的挂了，这是离死亡最近的一次拍摄。","b":false,"xe":"Retreating nearly cost me my life. Big waves rocked the ice violently and threw me into the icy sea. In my right hand was the huge RRS-33 tripod bag — I couldn't swim with it, and my camera bag was on my back. At the critical moment I threw the tripod bag onto the ice first, then swam hard, keeping my back as dry as I could. Survival instinct ignored the cold. I finally grabbed the ice edge and climbed out. Had the ice pinned me under, I'd truly be gone — my closest brush with death on a shoot."},{"t":"h","x":"掉进冰窟窿千万别慌，分享一个视频教大家如何自救！","xe":"If you fall through ice, don't panic — here's a video teaching self-rescue!"},{"t":"img","f":"img-11","w":1080,"h":1605},{"t":"p","x":"如芒在背","b":false,"xe":"'A Thorn at My Back'"},{"t":"p","x":"在北方冬季拍摄冰海的时候，一定要熟悉潮位信息，有的时候表面上看着已经冻实了的海面，随着涨潮，海冰也会被海水浸湿，掏空，一脚踩下去，可能直接掉进海里，危及生命。","b":true,"xe":"When shooting icy seas in northern winters, you must know the tide tables. A sea surface that looks frozen solid can be soaked and hollowed out by the rising tide — one step and you may plunge straight into the sea."},{"t":"img","f":"img-12","w":1080,"h":728},{"t":"p","x":"冬季就算在岸边拍摄冰海也最好穿上水岔裤，避免被大浪打湿。只要被海浪打湿，北风一吹，衣裤瞬间结冰，在北风中相信你坚持不了十分钟。","b":false,"xe":"Even shooting from shore in winter, wear waders to avoid getting drenched by big waves. Once wave-soaked, your clothes freeze instantly in the north wind — you won't last ten minutes out there, believe me."},{"t":"img","f":"img-13","w":750,"h":690},{"t":"h","x":"3保暖防冻","xe":"3. Staying Warm"},{"t":"p","x":"除了厚重的衣服之外，你还需要视情况准备好围巾、棉口罩，还有一项至关重要的道具——手套。重要的是：千万不要让你的手裸露到空气中。南方的摄影师尤其是玩航拍的喜欢带那种手指可以露出来的手套，在北方零下20度最好不要把手指露出来，可以选择很薄的触屏手套外面再套一个攀冰手套。","b":false,"xe":"Beyond heavy clothing, prepare scarves and cotton masks as needed, plus one crucial item — gloves. The key point: never leave your hands bare in the air. Southern photographers, especially drone pilots, like fingerless gloves — at −20°C in the North, don't expose your fingers. Wear thin touchscreen gloves under ice-climbing gloves."},{"t":"p","x":"-20以下不适用","b":false,"xe":"Not suitable below −20°C"},{"t":"img","f":"img-14","w":391,"h":444},{"t":"img","f":"img-15","w":631,"h":609},{"t":"h","x":"+","xe":"+"},{"t":"img","f":"img-16","w":853,"h":850},{"t":"p","x":"触屏手套+攀冰厚手套","b":false,"xe":"Touchscreen gloves + thick ice-climbing gloves"},{"t":"h","x":"忠告：千万不要用你的血肉之躯，去碰零下20度的任何金属件！","xe":"Warning: never touch any metal at −20°C with your bare flesh!"},{"t":"img","f":"img-17","w":510,"h":619},{"t":"h","x":"4人的保暖，最重要的是动态保暖与静态保暖的结合","xe":"4. Warmth = Dynamic + Static Insulation Combined"},{"t":"p","x":"拍摄时候羽绒服","b":false,"xe":"Down jacket while shooting"},{"t":"img","f":"img-18","w":800,"h":516},{"t":"img","f":"img-19","w":1080,"h":720},{"t":"p","x":"徒步保暖夹层+冲锋衣","b":false,"xe":"Hiking insulation layer + shell jacket"},{"t":"p","x":"在拍摄林海雪原的时候我需要穿越林海雪原找到合适的机位，要重装穿越林海雪原，很多地方积雪有1米深，但是在徒步穿越的时候，我只穿了放风的冲锋衣，里面一件厚抓绒保暖。","b":false,"xe":"Shooting the snowy forest sea meant trekking through it to find vantage points — heavy-load crossings, snow often a meter deep. Yet while trekking I wore only a windproof shell over a thick fleece."},{"t":"p","x":"因为在运动过程中，会发热，保证一个适当的保暖的平衡最重要，就是在这么冷的天气运动尽量不要出汗，一旦出汗，只要停下来不运动，就会造成失温。","b":true,"xe":"Because exercise generates heat, the right balance matters: in such cold, try not to sweat while moving. Once you sweat and then stop, you lose heat fast — dangerous hypothermia territory."},{"t":"p","x":"汗液带走大量热量。所以我不穿羽绒服，避免运动过热，避免徒步一身汗，拍摄冰冰凉。这就是我说的动态保暖，通常在运动状态下我会选择的户外衣服是哥伦比亚热反射内衣。徒步鞋也是哥伦比亚热反射靴，而且这么深的雪徒步，要有雪套，避免雪倒灌进。","b":false,"xe":"Sweat carries away enormous heat. So I skip the down jacket while hiking — avoid overheating on the move, avoid arriving sweaty at the shoot. That's what I call dynamic insulation: my usual choice is Columbia Omni-Heat base layers, and Omni-Heat hiking boots too. In snow this deep, gaiters are a must to keep snow from pouring in."},{"t":"img","f":"img-20","w":1080,"h":661},{"t":"p","x":"在运动保暖层的内衣选择上，切记一定要穿能快速排汗的速干内衣内裤，绝对不要穿全棉内衣。没有户外运动经验的人会错误地以为全棉内衣最好。 大错特错。","b":true,"xe":"For the active insulation layer, always wear quick-dry, sweat-wicking underwear — absolutely never pure cotton. Inexperienced people wrongly assume cotton is best. Dead wrong."},{"t":"p","x":"其实我们都有体会，全棉内衣在运动导致大量出汗后会吸收汗水，长时间潮湿，使人非常不舒服；在寒冷的冬天更可能因潮湿引起身体失温，严重时会危及生命。","b":false,"xe":"We all know it: once cotton underwear absorbs heavy sweat from exercise, it stays wet for ages — miserable anywhere, and in deep winter it can chill the body dangerously, even fatally."},{"t":"img","f":"img-21","w":1080,"h":651},{"t":"p","x":"然而在雾凇岛的冰面上守候光线的时候，就要穿最厚的羽绒服、羽绒裤、和帽子，因为在冰面上保持静止不动的时候，人体没有运动产生的热能，只有将自身产生的热量保持在羽绒服内才能保暖，即使这样在接近零下30度的冰面扛上两个小时也是非常艰苦的。对于静态保暖，肯定就是羽绒服更保暖。","b":false,"xe":"But when waiting for light on the ice at Wusong Island, wear your thickest down jacket, down pants and hat. Standing motionless on ice, the body generates no exercise heat — you can only trap your own heat inside the down. Even so, two hours on ice near −30°C is brutal. For static warmth, down is king."},{"t":"h","x":"因为长时间在户外，不做大量运动，也不会产生更多热量，我们需要把热量存在衣服内。","xe":"Because during long outdoor hours without heavy exercise you produce little heat, you need to store heat inside your clothing."},{"t":"p","x":"对于静态保暖，羽绒服是最暖和的，但是对于羽绒服的品牌也不要人云亦云，这些年加拿大鹅被过分吹捧，因为价格好，很多土豪都购买加拿大鹅，好不好只有穿过的人知道，在北京穿加拿大鹅有人都觉得冷，何况在东北呢！，不是越贵就真的越好，极影之前写了一篇文章《我不穿加拿大鹅，只穿始祖鸟》一文也介绍的很清楚了。钱花到位了，咬着牙也要说暖和。","b":false,"xe":"For static warmth, down is warmest — but don't follow the herd on brands. Canada Goose has been overhyped these years; with those prices, plenty of wealthy buyers snap it up. Whether it's good, only wearers know — some feel cold in it even in Beijing, let alone the Northeast! Pricier isn't automatically better. AdventureX's earlier article 'I Don't Wear Canada Goose, Only Arc'teryx' explains it clearly. Spend enough, and people will insist it's warm through gritted teeth."},{"t":"img","f":"img-22","w":1080,"h":720},{"t":"p","x":"除了厚重的衣服之外，你还需要视情况准备好围巾、棉口罩，还有一项至关重要的道具——手套。手套不能太短，至少要能盖住手腕；手套不能太厚，不能过度影响手指灵活性否则你连调参数都很麻烦。","b":false,"xe":"Beyond heavy clothing, prepare scarves, cotton masks and — crucially — gloves. Gloves shouldn't be too short: they must cover the wrists. Nor too thick: over-thick gloves kill finger dexterity, and even adjusting settings becomes a chore."},{"t":"img","f":"img-23","w":1080,"h":576},{"t":"h","x":"5相机保暖","xe":"5. Keeping the Camera Warm"},{"t":"p","x":"除了要做好对自身的防护工作，你还得注意保护你的器材，而其中最需要注意的就是相机电池。","b":false,"xe":"Beyond protecting yourself, protect your gear — above all, the camera battery."},{"t":"img","f":"img-24","w":990,"h":656},{"t":"img","f":"img-25","w":960,"h":619},{"t":"img","f":"img-26","w":152,"h":201},{"t":"img","f":"img-27","w":824,"h":615},{"t":"p","x":"相机棉服+暖宝宝","b":false,"xe":"Camera quilt + heat pads"},{"t":"p","x":"在低温环境中（一般指 0° 左右），相机的电极反应速率会变慢，却必须保持相同的输出功率，因此耗电量会增大，同时也会影响电池寿命。所以，如果你要去很冷的地方拍摄，不仅要带上几块备用电池，还要把它们放在温暖的地方保存（比如说放包里用布裹着，或者放个暖宝宝）。在极端寒冷的地区拍摄，摄影师们甚至会把电池和相机分开存放，只在需要拍摄时再装上电池，以最大限度提升电池性能。我通常在户外拍摄的时候给相机穿上棉衣，然后在靠近电池仓的的相机棉衣内侧贴上暖宝宝，这样可以避免掉电过快。备用电池也是放在贴近身体的羽绒服内的口袋里。","b":false,"xe":"In low temperatures (around 0°C), the battery's electrode reaction slows while output must stay constant, so power drains faster and battery life suffers. For cold-weather shoots, bring spare batteries AND keep them warm (wrapped in cloth in your bag, or with a heat pad). In extreme cold, photographers even store batteries separately from the camera, installing them only to shoot. I usually dress my camera in a quilted cover with a heat pad stuck inside near the battery compartment to slow the drain. Spare batteries go in the inner pocket of my down jacket, against the body."},{"t":"img","f":"img-28","w":1080,"h":720},{"t":"h","x":"6镜头起雾/结霜","xe":"6. Lens Fogging and Frost"},{"t":"p","x":"戴眼镜的人都会有过这样的遭遇：当你从室外走进温暖的室内时，眼镜片上会起一层雾，让你看不清东西。镜头也会有同样的问题，而且更严重：不仅会影响取景，还可能会在相机、镜头内部也起雾，引起一系列问题，需要我们重视。","b":false,"xe":"Glasses wearers know it well: walk from cold outdoors into a warm room and your lenses fog over. Camera lenses have the same problem, only worse — it hurts framing, and condensation can form INSIDE camera and lens, causing a cascade of issues that demand attention."},{"t":"p","x":"镜头起雾","b":false,"xe":"A fogged lens"},{"t":"img","f":"img-29","w":400,"h":300},{"t":"img","f":"img-30","w":700,"h":525},{"t":"p","x":"USB加热除雾带","b":false,"xe":"USB heating dew strip"},{"t":"p","x":"在冬季户外拍摄的你一定有过这样的体验，就是在低温环境下进行拍摄时，水汽常常会在镜头上形成水雾，因此常常给拍摄带来很大的困扰。一款USB镜头加热袋，能够实现快速升温以及持续保温，具体性能能够实现快速启动5秒钟加热，并能根据实际需要智能地达到50°C，并且平均温度保持在30°C。这样就会保证镜头不因周围气温下降，冷却产生雾水冻结镜头，从而实现设备在夜间温度下降或恶劣天气下正常工作。","b":false,"xe":"Anyone shooting outdoors in winter knows the annoyance: moisture condenses on the lens in the cold. A USB lens-heating band warms up fast and holds temperature — it starts heating in 5 seconds, can reach 50°C as needed, and averages around 30°C. That keeps the lens from cooling below the dew point, so your gear keeps working as night falls or weather worsens."},{"t":"img","f":"img-31","w":1080,"h":671},{"t":"p","x":"我们从冰冷的户外拍摄回来，都想迅速回到屋里暖和暖和，我们把相机从户外带回温暖的室内的时候，相机就会大量凝结水汽，相机出汗，这对机身的电路也是有损害的，同时相机的镜头也会大量出汗，如果接下来我们还有想拍摄的，这时候由于镜头出汗我们什么也拍不了，只能慢慢等相机和镜头慢慢烘干。","b":false,"xe":"Coming back from the freezing outdoors, we all want to rush inside to warm up. But bring a cold camera into a warm room and it sweats profusely — condensation damages the body's electronics, and the lens sweats too. If you still want to shoot more, you're stuck waiting for camera and lens to slowly dry."},{"t":"p","x":"解决方案是，让相机与镜头保持与室外温接近的温度，这样就不会起雾。我通常的做法是从室外拍摄回来直接把相机仍在汽车后备箱，或者将电池拿出，直接放在室外。确定没有拍摄计划的时候，才会将相机带入室内。","b":true,"xe":"The solution: keep camera and lens close to the outdoor temperature so no fog forms. My habit: coming in from a shoot, I leave the camera in the car trunk, or take the battery out and leave the body outside. Only when I'm sure there's no more shooting do I bring the camera indoors."},{"t":"img","f":"img-32","w":1080,"h":608},{"t":"p","x":"在室外拍摄时，有一种举动也会导致起雾甚至是结霜现象，那就是把脸凑近镜头/相机/LCD 屏。要知道，你呼出的气体温度可比环境温度要高得多，如果温度足够低，你哈出的热气甚至可能在 LCD 上制造出一层冰：所以，不要随便把脸凑近你的器材；在用 LCD 屏取景构图时，最好也暂时屏住气。","b":false,"xe":"Outdoors, one habit also causes fogging or even frost: putting your face close to the lens, camera or LCD. Your breath is far warmer than the ambient air — cold enough, and your breath can freeze a layer of ice onto the LCD. So don't casually bring your face near the gear; when composing on the LCD, hold your breath briefly."},{"t":"h","x":"7避免三脚架结冰","xe":"7. Keep Your Tripod from Freezing"},{"t":"img","f":"img-33","w":1080,"h":719},{"t":"p","x":"我曾经在大冬天，带着三脚架去拍溪水，为了找个好机位，把三脚架支在了河水里。然后，收工之后，并没有将三脚架上的水擦干，并晾干。而是直接将湿乎乎的三脚架直接收起来，并将三脚架直接仍在车的后备箱，奔往下一个拍摄点。","b":false,"xe":"One deep winter I took my tripod to shoot a stream. For a good vantage point I stood it in the river. Afterward, I didn't wipe or dry it — I folded the soaking tripod and threw it straight into the car trunk, heading to the next spot."},{"t":"p","x":"大家猜一猜，后来发生了啥？等我到了下一个拍摄点，打算拿三脚架拍摄的时候，三脚架拉都拉不开，直接被冻死了，放在车里暖风吹了好久，才将三脚架解冻。","b":false,"xe":"Guess what happened? At the next location, the tripod wouldn't open at all — frozen solid. It took a long blast of the car's heater to thaw it."},{"t":"img","f":"img-34","w":1080,"h":1080},{"t":"img","f":"img-35","w":1080,"h":1080},{"t":"img","f":"img-36","w":1080,"h":1080},{"t":"img","f":"img-37","w":1080,"h":1080},{"t":"p","x":"以上事例告诉我们，冷天跑到潮湿地区拍摄，一定要及时把脚架擦干，至少也要把脚架放在温暖些的地方。","b":false,"xe":"The lesson: after shooting in wet places in the cold, wipe the tripod dry promptly — at least store it somewhere warm."},{"t":"p","x":"如果以上两点由于条件所限你都做不到，那就把三脚架的“脚”全部伸到最长，同时松开锁扣（或锁定旋钮），这样即使结冰了，清理起来也会比较方便，给你造成的麻烦也最小。再上图中我标记出容易结冰，或者被雪夹在一些缝隙，导致三脚架或者云台无法正常使用，相机可能从云台上直接滑落，因为有雪在夹缝相当于润滑剂，根本锁不死，各位影友在户外的时候要多多留意。","b":false,"xe":"If conditions make both impossible, extend all the legs fully and release every lock (or knob). Then even if ice forms, cleanup is easier and trouble minimal. In the image above I've marked spots that freeze easily or trap snow in crevices, crippling tripod or head — the camera can even slide right off the head, because snow in the gaps acts like a lubricant and nothing locks tight. Everyone, pay extra attention outdoors."},{"t":"h","x":"8冰雪辅助工具","xe":"8. Snow & Ice Accessories"},{"t":"img","f":"img-38","w":1080,"h":654},{"t":"p","x":"《乾坤太极》","b":false,"xe":"'Tai Chi of Heaven and Earth'"},{"t":"p","x":"天为乾，地为坤，水为太极，乾坤太极！","b":false,"xe":"Heaven is Qian, Earth is Kun, water is Tai Chi — the Tai Chi of heaven and earth!"},{"t":"p","x":"2017年初3月份，刚下过一场雪，我想到一座山的山顶拍摄乾坤太极这个场景（至少目前我没看过有人拍摄太极湾银河拱桥），为了拍摄更好的画质，我打算赤道仪拍摄，还带了RRS TV33+BH55 PRO球台和我平时用的捷信1542登山者系列，机身带了sony A7S 天文改机和sigma 20 f1.4 和 尼康D810 +14-24.","b":false,"xe":"In March 2017, just after a snowfall, I wanted to shoot this Tai Chi Bay scene from a summit (so far I've never seen anyone shoot the Milky Way arch over Tai Chi Bay). For the best quality I planned to use a star tracker, and brought the RRS TV33 + BH55 PRO ball head plus my usual Gitzo 1542 Mountaineer. Bodies: a Sony A7S astro-modified with Sigma 20mm f/1.4, and a Nikon D810 with 14-24."},{"t":"p","x":"半夜11点开始爬山，由于雪太大，我的车被误到半路，到山脚下就还有3km，上山正常说步行40分钟，但是山上雪的厚度超出我的预料，有半米深，到了膝盖，在这么厚的积雪徒步爬山非常消耗体力，而且一脚深一脚浅，锂电手电在低温下迅速掉光了电量，只有一个人摸黑爬山.","b":false,"xe":"I started climbing at 11 p.m. Deep snow stranded my car halfway, leaving 3 km to the trailhead — normally a 40-minute walk up. But the snow on the mountain exceeded all expectation: half a meter deep, up to my knees. Trekking uphill in snow like that is exhausting, one foot deep, one foot shallow — and my lithium flashlight quickly died in the cold. I climbed on in darkness, alone."},{"t":"p","x":"凌晨3点银河就要升起，我还赶着时间拍摄，带着这么多器材到了半山腰我也气喘吁吁，体力不支，这时候只有舍弃一些不必要的器材了，轻装上阵，于是我选择把大的三脚架和赤道仪扔到雪堆里，等下山的时候回来捡（反正半夜荒山野岭也不会丢），就这样经过近3个小时的徒步登山在银河升起前，按时赶到了山顶！","b":false,"xe":"The Milky Way would rise at 3 a.m. and I was racing time. Halfway up, loaded with gear, I was gasping and spent. Time to abandon the non-essentials: I tossed the big tripod and the star tracker into a snowdrift to collect on the way down (no one would find them in the midnight wilderness anyway). After nearly three hours of climbing, I reached the summit on time — just before the Milky Way rose!"},{"t":"img","f":"img-39","w":908,"h":1234},{"t":"p","x":"下山天亮时候拍摄半夜上山踩出的路","b":false,"xe":"Shot at dawn on the way down: the path I'd trampled climbing up at midnight"},{"t":"h","x":"其实这次出行这么艰苦的原因还是因为我忘带了一个雪地户外神器！","xe":"Truth be told, the trip was so brutal mainly because I forgot one snow-country miracle tool!"},{"t":"p","x":"雪鞋","b":false,"xe":"Snowshoes"},{"t":"img","f":"img-40","w":1080,"h":906},{"t":"img","f":"img-41","w":1080,"h":748},{"t":"img","f":"img-42","w":1000,"h":667},{"t":"p","x":"雪鞋又称踏雪板，看上去像很宽很短的滑雪板。在很深的雪地上行走的时候，雪鞋可以通过将人的体重分散在更大的区域，避免深深陷入雪地之中。在积雪很多的地方，很多拍摄点只有穿雪鞋才能走到。","b":false,"xe":"Snowshoes look like wide, short skis. Walking on deep snow, they spread your weight over a larger area so you don't sink in. In heavy-snow country, many photo spots are reachable only in snowshoes."},{"t":"p","x":"如果要爬山的话，有把后跟垫高的“上升器”的雪鞋能给你节省很多体力。对多数“大众”拍摄点来说，雪靴大概不是必须的。如果你确切知道你去的地方需要在深雪上行走的话才需要购买。","b":false,"xe":"For climbing, snowshoes with heel risers ('elevators') save a lot of energy. For most popular photo spots, snowshoes probably aren't essential. Buy them only if you know for sure your destination involves deep-snow walking."},{"t":"img","f":"img-43","w":1080,"h":608},{"t":"p","x":"在一些运动极限类的冰雪拍摄上，冰镐、冰斧、攀冰鞋也是必不可少的辅助装备。","b":false,"xe":"For extreme snow-and-ice shooting, ice axes, ice tools and crampons are also indispensable."},{"t":"h","x":"9如何正确曝光","xe":"9. How to Expose Correctly"},{"t":"img","f":"img-44","w":1080,"h":720},{"t":"p","x":"拍冰雪曝光过点好还是欠点好，主张不很一致。主张减少曝光量的人认为：冰雪的反光很强，相机测光表所测得曝光值受冰雪反光的影响而增高，所以减去虚高假象，曝光才会准确。主张增加曝光量的人认为：冰雪反光是很强烈，但与阴影面的反差很强，减少了曝光量，阴影面会失去影纹，所以应该照顾到阴影面，增加一点曝光量。哪一种主张对呢？（以上为其他人观点）","b":false,"xe":"Should snow scenes be exposed a bit over or a bit under? Opinions differ. The reduce-exposure camp argues: ice and snow reflect strongly, fooling the meter into overestimating — so subtract the phantom brightness for accurate exposure. The increase-exposure camp argues: yes, snow reflects strongly, but the contrast with shadow areas is huge; reduce exposure and the shadows lose all texture — so expose a bit more for the shadows' sake. Which is right? (The above are others' views.)"},{"t":"img","f":"img-45","w":1080,"h":723},{"t":"p","x":"我个人更偏向于增加一点曝光量效果会好一些。增加了曝光量不仅阴影面曝光准确，冰雪会显得更为白洁。","b":true,"xe":"Personally I lean toward slightly more exposure: the shadows come out right, and the snow looks whiter and cleaner."},{"t":"p","x":"曝光量增加多少为好呢？一般来讲，当相机测光表测定曝光值之后，可再增加1－2挡曝光量就较为理想。但是最终的效果还是以直方图为标准。","b":false,"xe":"How much extra? Generally, after the meter settles on a value, adding 1-2 stops works well. But the final arbiter is always the histogram."},{"t":"p","x":"其实可以通过CPL滤镜消掉一些雪的强反光，减少明暗反差，得到一个很均衡的曝光照片。对于上面的场景，雪的反光也会相当严重，这时候我们需要使用CPL滤镜，消除雪面的强反光。CPL滤镜可能是雪景摄影最常用的滤镜，最常用的场景也是太阳升起之后的强反光时刻。","b":false,"xe":"You can also use a CPL filter to cut the snow's harsh reflections, reducing contrast for a balanced exposure. For scenes like the one above, snow glare is severe — that's when we reach for the CPL. It's probably the most-used filter in snow photography, above all in the harsh glare after sunrise."},{"t":"h","x":"10多视角拍摄","xe":"10. Shoot from Multiple Perspectives"},{"t":"p","x":"风光不只是大广角，这些非常有意思的长焦小景会让你的片子与众不同且难以复制。第一张《雪脉相连》拍摄于南美刚刚下过雪的早上，雨夹雪将光秃秃的黑色树枝覆盖，从树底下看过去非常有趣，于是我换上100-400GM这枚镜头，拍摄树枝的局部，黑白的反差和树枝像河流一样相连，最后海纳百川的姿态让我觉得这张片子非常的与众不同。","b":false,"xe":"Landscape isn't all ultra-wide. These intimate telephoto scenes make your work distinctive and hard to replicate. The first, 'Linked Snow Veins', was shot on a freshly snowed morning in South America: sleet coated the bare black branches, and looking up from beneath them was fascinating. I switched to the 100-400GM and framed details — black-and-white contrast, branches connecting like rivers, finally merging into one all-embracing flow. That made the photo truly one of a kind."},{"t":"img","f":"img-46","w":800,"h":1200},{"t":"img","f":"img-47","w":1080,"h":1625},{"t":"p","x":"这幅《层林尽染》我是爬到防火瞭望塔上用70-200长焦镜头竖构图拍摄，虽然长焦镜头有压缩景深的效果，然而，站在高处俯瞰林海，前面的树木将后面的树木遮挡，错落有致，遮挡法和纵透视加上竖构图的综合运用，配合竖构图可以让画面显得更加的立体。画面还同时具备冷暖的光影对比，色相和明度的进退。遮挡和纵透视都可以通过前期改变相机机位的方法来实现，摄影师在构图时不妨多加思考。","b":false,"xe":"For 'Forest Dyed in Layers' I climbed the fire lookout tower and shot vertically with the 70-200. Telephoto compresses depth, yet looking down over the forest sea, the front trees partially block those behind in ordered ranks — occlusion plus aerial perspective plus vertical framing together make the image more three-dimensional. The frame also holds warm-cool light contrast and advancing-receding hues. Occlusion and aerial perspective can both be achieved on location by moving the camera — think more when composing."},{"t":"img","f":"img-48","w":1080,"h":608},{"t":"p","x":"除了换上长焦镜头你还可以使用无人机进行上帝视角拍摄，但值得注意的是在极寒的条件飞无人机会有以下问题：","b":false,"xe":"Besides switching to a telephoto, you can use a drone for God's-eye views. But note these issues when flying in extreme cold:"},{"t":"p","x":"1.雪太厚，没地方起飞。（可手持起飞解决）","b":false,"xe":"1. Snow too thick, nowhere to take off. (Solution: hand-launch.)"},{"t":"p","x":"2.飞行时间大大缩减。（留够充足电量返航）","b":false,"xe":"2. Greatly reduced flight time. (Reserve plenty of battery for the return.)"},{"t":"p","x":"3.手机不能长时间遥控。（暖宝宝+热水袋给手机加热）","b":false,"xe":"3. The phone can't run the controller for long. (Heat pads + hot-water bottle for the phone.)"},{"t":"img","f":"img-49","w":1080,"h":721},{"t":"h","x":"结语","xe":"Conclusion"},{"t":"p","x":"这篇近六千字的文章是我多年的冰雪摄影的经验总结，绝不是网站上复制粘贴过来的，都是本人亲身经历，都是一次次实战得出的教训和真知，希望对大家有所帮助。","b":false,"xe":"This nearly six-thousand-word article distills my years of ice-and-snow photography — nothing copied from websites; every word is personal experience, lessons and insights earned shoot by shoot. I hope it helps you all."}],"titleEn":"Winter Ice & Snow Photography: Hard-Won Lessons That Cost Thousands"}