Photography Tutorial · 2019-04-21
Blue is everywhere — the sea, the sky, and the ambient light of nature.
In photographs, blue often sets the atmosphere. Beyond the common vivid, saturated blues, today Thomas introduces a low-saturation blue tone that's popular on Instagram.
Graded this way, blue feels calmer and more comfortable.
▶ Watch the video tutorial on Bilibili
This is the fully illustrated companion to the video above. Using an aerial shot from Greenland — gulls chasing a fishing boat — Thomas demonstrates the full Camera Raw workflow behind Instagram's popular low-saturation blue: lens corrections, transform fixes, a secondary crop, then the Basic panel, film curve, HSL and split toning, finishing with batch-syncing the recipe to photos shot in overcast and sunny conditions. Every key step is captured in screenshots below, with the exact values spelled out in the text.
As always, corrections come before color. Open the Lens Corrections panel and tick Remove Chromatic Aberration and Enable Profile Corrections (at 0:28-0:34 in the video). Then move to the Transform tools and try Auto — but here it does a poor job, so switch to drawing guide lines instead (at 0:42-0:54 in the video).
Zoom in and draw vertical and horizontal guides along references: the fuel storage tank is a vertical cylinder, so its edges must be plumb, and the buildings in the distance should be vertical too. Once the guides are set, the software applies a dramatic rotation and perspective correction — the tanks and houses return to true vertical. The boat gets stretched ever so slightly, but compared with the skewed distortion, the corrected perspective feels far more comfortable (at 1:00-2:23 in the video).
With corrections done, it's time for a secondary crop. Thomas sticks to his usual 3:2 ratio (the default of his Sony camera), and while stretching the crop frame deliberately brings in a gull below — as if chasing the boat. The final frame is a vertical composition with the fishing boat right at the lower third, a classic rule-of-thirds placement (at 2:25-3:03 in the video).
Now for the Ins-style, low-saturation blue look. Step one: pull the highlights way down, which flattens the bright foreground so the frame reads even rather than bright-in-front, dark-in-back (at 3:12-3:32 in the video). Then lift the shadows a fair amount — another staple of the Ins look (at 3:34-3:41 in the video).
Drag the blacks slider left and the image deepens dramatically, recovering a lot of contrast; push the whites right and the photo's overall contrast comes back (at 3:42-3:59 in the video). Add a bit of clarity; and since the target is a low-saturation blue look, cut saturation hard — about -30 here — with further HSL work to come, because a global cut also mutes the reds and oranges (at 4:00-4:27 in the video).
Next comes the crucial tone curve. For the Ins look — and many film looks — you draw a film curve, which is really simple: a lifted-black curve plus an S-curve. The lifted black means raising the darkest tones so no pure black remains in the frame: grab the leftmost point of the curve and lift it substantially (at 4:30-4:59 in the video).
But lifting the blacks alone makes the image look flat, so add an S-curve on top to restore contrast while keeping the lifted toe. Lifted blacks plus an S — a curve combination used across countless editing styles (at 5:00-5:19 in the video).
The HSL panel here is simple — saturation and luminance only: drop the blue saturation hard, to around -60 (at 5:20-5:36 in the video); boost orange and red saturation moderately for warm-cool contrast; and in luminance, nudge orange up and blue down slightly — again for contrast (at 5:37-5:51 in the video).
At this point saturation is very low, and the blue still falls short of the real Ins blue. The trick: keep the blue saturation low, then add the Ins blue back through split toning. Here is a rule worth memorizing — the blue that's popular on Instagram sits at a hue value of about 210 (at 5:52-6:27 in the video). Set the highlights' hue to 210 and add a touch of saturation, and the highlights pick up that Ins cast; not much is needed — they go from pure white or slightly purple to much more pleasant (at 6:30-6:47 in the video).
Don't forget the shadows: set their hue to the same Ins blue around 210 and raise saturation to about 11 — a perfectly fine result (at 6:48-7:06 in the video). Finally he felt the blacks were not deep enough, so the blacks slider goes down a bit further — that is what makes the blue feel deep and profound (at 7:14-7:27 in the video). And with that, the low-saturation Ins blue edit is complete.
Now the before-and-after: without the transform corrections the boat was visibly distorted; after them, its perspective feels right (at 7:37-7:49 in the video). On color, the original was a highly vivid blue that isn't particularly pleasant; the sea blue now reads quiet (at 7:50-8:00 in the video). The recipe holds up for blues shot in both overcast and sunny conditions.
The recipe also scales: open several photos together in Camera Raw and sync the settings or apply a preset. Select all the photos in the library, right-click and choose Sync Settings, transferring everything except transform, crop, local adjustments and spot removal (at 8:09-8:35 in the video) — corrections and crops differ per frame, but the look is universal.
After syncing: the overcast frame goes from flat to far deeper, and the sunny one turns calmer and more pleasing (at 8:36-8:52 in the video). That is the whole secret of the low-saturation Ins blue — corrections as the foundation, the film curve for structure, and hue 210 as the finishing touch.
1. Correct before you style: lens corrections first, then transform guides to plumb the tanks and buildings, a 3:2 vertical crop with the boat on the thirds line; 2. The Basic panel sets the base: highlights down hard, shadows up, blacks left and whites right to restore contrast, saturation cut by 30 first; 3. The film curve = lifted blacks (no pure black) plus an S (contrast back); 4. The Ins-blue rule: drop blue saturation to -60 in HSL, boost orange-red for warm-cool contrast, add hue-210 blue to highlights and shadows in split toning, then sink the blacks for depth — sync it to every blue photo, cloudy or sunny.
This tutorial also comes with a RAW file to download and practice with.
Practice file download:
Link: https://pan.baidu.com/s/1ivIaAXZMhgd-LpcPgjPWug
Extraction code: 96g2
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